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I was searching the archives on turbobricks and found something interesting. But I've got two conflicting verifications of what it takes to change an 83-84 L2.0 over to a 85-87 (maybe up to 89?) L2.2. I'll post the two posts I found, one short about just needing to change distributors/repin amm connection and the other claiming more. Which one is correct. I've got an 85 distributor that is causing problems in my 83, thinking maybe of just going for the whole swap and making it a L2.2.
#1
"It's a very stout motor, its a B21 w/ larger bore. Forged crank. LH2.0 is just as reliable as 2.2 the only difference between the two is the distributor, and the AMM. If you have a LH2.0 AMM failure, it is as easy to convert to LH2.2 all you need is the LH2.2 ECU, and repin the AMM to LH2.2. All sensors for LH2.0 are otherwise the same as LH2.2.
I converted my B23F LH2.0 to LH2.2 doing just the above, runs great and easy parts availability with LH2.2."
#2
"LH2.2 is much more rational in comparison. AMMs are much more stable, wiring harness clips are much less of a PITA, excepting the odd 1 real early 85-86 car, I've never replaced an ECU on any LH2.2 car ever, and converting an LH2.0 car to LH2.2 is pretty straight forward if it is your personal car. I wouldn't do it without decent compensation on someone else's car, but you just need an LH2.2 engine harness (with fuel pump relay), computer and to switch the in-cabin plug with the 3 wires for the fuel pump, ignition switched power to the fuel pump relay, and wire for the A/C fast idle to mate up to the LH2.2 stuff. The silver lining is also that LH2.2 turbo ECUs are a heck of a lot more common than the LH2.0 compatible one (only comes in the '84 760T)."
The first one grabbed my attention because of the apparent ease but the second posting seems a bit more difficult. Anyone ever done the conversion? At this point I'm chasing after an 83 distributor with the bad round connector and the wire lead that seems to get shorts too. I'd rather just go L2.2 if its not too difficult. Thanks
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I got my original distributor back from my brother and tried it out. Got it all timed correctly and found the 6 inch lead has a short in it when not placed in just the right position. The car still has the stalls when warming up and when I made the 2 mile trip down to the gas station it had a lack of acceleration still. (Idles just fine, has remanned AMM in it) I filled the tank up with high octane gas and on the way home it really lacked any real power. It would just feel like it just didn't respond to the gas pedal except slowly accelerating.
My thoughts are that if the 82 had the chrysler in it and the two work with different ICU's then there is a chance that the distributors up to a 88 would work since it has the hall sensor inside. Thinking about the different distributor #'s relating to plug and shaft diameter differences rather than correlating to ICU compatibility. Until I can get this issue figured out the chrysler will have to stay put unless I somehow find an 83-84 bosch for cheap. That way when the 85 is swapped back in I'll be sure to have the car running correctly and then be able to observe any performance differences.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to brain storm on the subject. I should have swapped in the old distributor before starting this thread.
Next things to do:
Check fuel filter again to see if its been filled with rust/sediment. I replaced it last year.
Test throttle control switch for possible link to stalls.
Swap out the ECU with one from a former 83 I had 5 years ago.
Swap out ignition harness, this one showed some dirty wire and a little green when I spliced into it. Might just be from the last splice covered with electrical tape.
Check brushes on alternator. I had to jump start it to get the thing timed. When it was running without the jump still connected, the running of the timing gun would cause the car to loose some power and take the juice away enough to kill the first time. Maybe related to the stalls.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Also, I won't tell you where, but there's an 84 turbo in knoxville I've got access to. I was wondering if it'd be worth it to pull the cam? As well as any other parts it might donate to make something else more peppy.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I'm having the same LH2.0 problems as these guys at pre-warm running...
Replaced AMM a year and half ago
Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Checked every pin on the ECU with the bentley manual and NOTHING - TPS was misadjusted and fixed that
Fuel pressure is good
I've been strongly advised that my LH2.0 woes are related to the engine coolant temp sensor (ECT), but it checks out.
The interesting thing though, is up above, there's mention of when the car is cold having to mash the throttle and it bogging when cold, then once it reaches a certain RPM it suddenly seems to turn on - I have this happen too. What's more, I also replaced the hall sensor last summer as mine went out and it wasn't from an LH2.0. I've got the hall sensor from the 84 already and I'll be swapping it in today.
The car fouls often at cold starts and I generally can't get it started back unless I let it sit.
Also, right after the swap I noticed a new "personality" of the gas pedal. Right when you get off the idle switch on the TPS, there is a stutter and misfire in the engine at speed. As soon as you press any distance further though on the pedal, it stops and drives fine.
Timing was set properly idling warm at 800rpm when I replaced it with the post 84 hall sensor. I hope I've got it written down in my repair manual what it was from.
I'll post up today when I get it swapped.
Wheel bearings and diagnosis yesterday and today I'm doing the ECT, Hall sensor, oil change and replacement of a transmission fitting that's leaking at the compression fitting no mater what I do.
Wish me luck!
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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never having done 1, i would suggest getting the wiring diagrams for both and see. i think the lh 2.2 has more wires to the ecu and therefore, you need the harness, also. but, i want to know, how's the harness on yours? the ignition harnesses are a problem under the crank and at the ignition ecu. be a pity to go through all that when maybe you just need a harness to fix the problem. i remmeber selling the bosch dist to replace the chrysler 1 back in 86 or so, when volvo replaced them with 1 part, i think first used in the 85 b230. good luck, chuck.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
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Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I was looking over the harness a few days ago but not under the crank and from what I could tell the wire looked good. I'll take a better look around the crank pulley. Injection harness is an updated harness.
From what your saying you think the distributor that volvo was replacing the chrysler with was also in the 85? The 1 part being a distributor? So should the 85 distributor work then with an 83 ignition? Thanks for the help. All I've got from the different parts sites is that the 83-84 distributor is different from all the others. Maybe just by number? But it seems like people would have picked up on the ability to swap years by now if it where possible.
I'm wondering why this b23 bosch distributer is so expensive. (link) Maybe its just the replacement that volvo made for those who wanted to replace the Chrysler without having to swap out the ignition harness too. That would explain the high price since there where most likely a limited number of them made special for the swap? Thats my guess at this point since I've also heard that the bosch in the B23's didn't have this round plug but I'm also thinking maybe that would have been for the late 84's now that I think of it. Hopefully that explains why its so difficult to find a new replacement. Maybe no one realizes the L2.2 bosch is ok with the L2.0.
http://www.swedishautoparts.com/240/volvo-240-ignition-parts-and-related.html
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posted by
someone claiming to be
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Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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i know the connector on the 85 ups is square and the chryslers are round.. there are bosch with round, but i think they got replaced eventually with the 85 up. i don't remember an ignition harness or dist connector change nor a service or parts bulletin as to how to deal with that round to square change. i also know the 85 up have a different ignition brain part number, but i don't imagine that would be absolutely neccessary in your case.
don't rely on what the harness insulation looks like. you have to open it up and inspect EACH wire where it passes under the crank pulley. there's a coax feed that breaks alot and fixing it doesn't quite do the job. we started replacing those harnesses after a while as the repairs didn't cut it. good luck, chuck.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
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Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Tried getting a better look at the harness but the wet snow was keeping me off the ground. I undid the distributor side but the plug wouldn't fit past the timing belt cover. I did get it loose enough to get a semi look at it. The wiring looks different from the kind used in the bad harnesses. Its looks stronger and seems to be wrapped with electrical tape. I'm thinking maybe someone already made their own in the past. I'm going to get the old chrysler distributor I had before, gave it to my brother for his mpg model, and see if the thing runs right. If it does then its the distributor if not I'm thinking the only thing left is the injectors or throttle position switch. Thanks for helping me by another response, always appreciated. If my 86 ever snaps in half from rust underneath then I'm thinking of a switch to the L2.2 but otherwise that seems like a task not meant for this year.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
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Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Hi Uncle,
I've seen most of the 83 and 84 configurations, and devised myself a pocket tester for the Hall-effect distributors to help me find good ones in the yards. Best I can tell, the distributors, if they're Bosch, are all the same functionally - that is, if you can wire them into your harness, the 83-88 cars will provide you with a good one.
The problem is making an adapter to the round plug. You won't find anything to fit that rectangular one for the Bosch except in the junkyard, and the 85-88 harnesses for ignition are not the same as the 83-84. So, if you don't care for wiring kludges (and who does when they're under the hood) you'd need to replace the whole doggone harness back to the V/C controller on the washer bottle.
But, if you can tolerate an adapter cable, cut off the round one and its pigtail from the defective Bosch or Chrysler distributor and marry it with just the rectangular end from an ignition cable plucked from any 84-88. That saves you from having to pry the whole harness from under the crank, and chase the orange and gray leads running under the intake manifold.
Either approach is less work than rewiring under the dash for LH2.2, which, no matter how you approach it, would be a kludge with a capital K. Yes, the AMM and ECU are more robust on 2.2, and if that's truly a factor for you, then run with it.
Tell me why else you think an 85-88 distributor would not work in your 83?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
The quickest way to double your money is to fold it in half and put it back in your pocket.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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To convert to LH 2.2, why not just use the LH 2.2 engine wiring harness, LH 2.2 ECU, and AMM? You'd spend less than $100 at the self serve wrecking yard. Parts would be $55 where I get mine.
On separate note, I bought and installed a Bosch distributor (ebay) which was a direct replacement for the Chrysler unit on my daughter's first car (1983 244).
--
john
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Hi John,
Maybe I was a little intense in my use of the word "kludge" under the dash an LH2.2 conversion would need, especially as I haven't done one. But I was assuming the conversion would use the 2.2 engine harness, hoping it would be an updated one or the 88. Probably it would just involve a few butt splices getting the pump and switched wires spliced in at the new single relay socket. Being biased against the conversion is just an expression of my personal habit to try to restore things to the way they were before they broke.
Our 83 had the Bosch with the round plug. I only got to see those white caps in the yards and began to view them as ugly. Our 84 had the later, rectangular connector. Can you think of any reason the 85-88 distributor would not work here?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
We childproofed our homes, but they are still getting in.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Sorry for the delay in the reply, Art. My wife filled her buck tag with the (was) excellent condition 1993 944T. I made a 600 mile round trip to pick it up on Sunday, and I've been busy with it in the evenings since. I'll post pictures when I can get my card reader to work. I'll repair the car. It is about $3000 worth of damage.
I don't know why the later distributor wouldn't work. The 1985-88 NA and 1985-89 turbo distributors work on the 1984 760s with LH 2.1. LH 2.1 uses a block mounted distributor.
--
john
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I am guessing your $3K figure is in "adjuster dollars" for the purpose of cutting you a check and washing their hands of the car? If you have to spend that much, I'd have to think your wife is very lucky to walk away. Ouch.
This distributor difference is a mystery I have no chance of investigating on my own. I read Bruce S. (elsewhere in this thread) and come away as surprised as he was - the symptoms don't fit a distributor. Both are Hall-effect.
And now. switching back to fuel from ignition, you leave me another curiosity. What is "LH2.1"? Something only for turbo 7-series?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Everyone seems normal until you get to know them.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
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Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I've already soldered in a rectangular plug and got rid of the round. (Did it twice to eliminate it from the list) About the time I put the 85 distributor in the car is when I had a bad idle and stall for the first few minutes. I've gone through the list of things that it could be and have no luck fixing the problem. My last thought is the throttle position switch since it does hesitate if I just tap on the gas a little or press it really slow it will hesitate at first.
My reason for thinking the 83-84 distributors are different from the 85-88 is because I can't find anywhere that says for sure that they will work. Plus I've had this problem since around the time I replaced the distributor. I've gone through and replaced the fuel filter, FPR, Idle control valve, AMM, in-tank pump, main pump, swapped ignition ECU (had auto switched to manual), replaced intake manifold gasket, temp sensor under #4 intake, and other vacuum leaks, ect... I'm stuck at this point thinking its the distributor I put in the car. I'd like to eliminate the possibility of a ignition ecu communication problem with the distributor.
When driving, it just seems to just all of a sudden kick in, from running cold and having loss of power/hesitation, to driving with an instant increase in power. But it never really feels like its got all the power it should have. Like its running rich a bit or something. But it changes instantly from running poor to having some pick up and go after driving a few miles down the road.
If the 85 should work then all the better, grateful for some encouraging words about that possibility. Kind of strapped at the moment, construction is really slow, would rather not worry about throwing more $$ into it.
(Most of those items are new but I got some really good deals, like a $25 bosch FPR new in box or a new Idle control valve (bosch) for $100. The distributor was $25 and I got a good looking AMM remanned for $25 and had the ignition ecu from an 83 I had 5 years ago but parted out.) My 86 daily driver is rusting out on me and who knows how much longer I have on the transmission, 300,000 ml so far. So I don't mind throwing these parts at the car with no rust with hope of it being an investment for a solid car one day.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Hello,
I think I can answer your problem, I'll try to make this short.
I have a 84 245, two years back I noticed a lot of slop in the distributor shaft, under the timing light, the mark would jump around. I ask the question here about what distributors I could use, and was said that I could go up to 88.
So I picked up one from the pick-n-pull and swapped it in, now here is the act that took me down the wrong path. At the same time with the distributor out of the way I also removed and cleaned the idle control valve and the throttle body.
After starting it up I had poor idle, stalling during braking, I was unable to set the base idle to spec. When I would ground the wire that takes the ICV out of the loop to set the base idle, I could turn the throttle screw all the way in and not get the idle down low enough for spec.
It was as if the engine had suddenly developed a bad case of blowbye. The list of things done is as follows.
ICV cleaned and replaced
throttle body cleaned and replaced
TPS adjusted and replaced (again & again)
ECU swapped from 503 to 510
checked for vacuum leaks (again & again)
relaced oil trap and its O-rings
ran the Bentley diagnostic test, pin for pin at the ECU plug
STILL THE SAME!!!
Then someone asked the 83-84 distributor question here again about a month ago. And this time someone said the 83-84's were hall effect, and the 85-88 were something else can't remember the term, and he thought they were not compatible.
So I went to the pick-n-pull found an 84 with a solid distributor, and made the swap.
My car now idles perfect and does not stall when coming to a stop. Because I had removed the trottle body and the ICV at the same time I chasing my tail all this time and had overlooked the distributor change as being the problem.
--
Bruce S. near D.C.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Reading your post again I realized you said that the 83-84 where hall effect and the 85-88 where something else. I believe they both have the hall sensor in them, its not until the 89 that you get the sensor on the top of the bell housing behind the engine block. My only reasoning for two distributors being different enough would go along with the same idea that the two ICU's from the LH2.0 and 2.2 wouldn't be compatible. There must be something there that just doesn't compute. At some point the 02 sensor is finally warming up on its own and the engine does something to try and compensate for the lean/missing engine. Its not firing the fuel injection at the correct time or maybe missing the signal. Some how it computes and gets the timing down enough but I think even when the power kicks in its still not accelerating like it should and running a bit rough.
here is something I found on Ebay tonight. First time I've found someone saying these years should be compatible.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pickup-Coil-1984-87-Volvo-240DL-240GL-240GLT-240GT-740_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33689QQihZ027QQitemZ400040846707QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ht_4111wt_832
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I looked back through last months threads and discovered it was your March 3rd question that I was remembering. It was the posts by Lucid and Outofworkjoe that made me seek out an 84 to replace the 88 I had swapped in.
There is something there that is not compatible, maybe the correct ICU is the answer.
Once the 84 went in everything returned to normal, no more hesitation or stalling.
--
Bruce S. near D.C.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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beautiful!!!!
Well at least I now have some replacement parts after chasing this problem. But at least I found some new bosch parts on the cheap. A lot cheaper than the new honda hybrid my girlfriend thinks is worth while with zero percent interest for 72 months.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I have been chasing the exact same problem in my '88 244GL 184K for the last two years and I have just about jacked up the horn and replaced the whole car until through the process of elimination and Art's help I narrowed it down to the dist. and the hall-effect sensor.
My '88 is so old and there are hardly any of the older 200 series in the yards anymore; it took me a while to find a spare for rebuild. I needed to replace a lot of the other parts since they hadn't been serviced since purchase in '97.
As to the difference in the dist. between '83 and '85-'88. The only thing that I can think of is the B23 is a much higher compression engine. The B23 also has the round plug at the dist. BTW. the '84 760 was a B23FT only offered in the US in late '83-'84.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Makes me think its slightly possible that the distributor I put in wasn't working right before except I got it from a car that was running before the front seals leaked and the engine went. Its tempting to take the distributor from my 86 and give it a try just to eliminate the possibility.
The only thing at the moment that will help is finding the the correct distributor and seeing if it changes things. In the mean time I've got a u-joint to replace, struts (new with the car in box), and I'm now in the middle of getting the external oil filter, pre-pump accusump, and oil cooler off. Going to give it a well needed oil change and wait for the right distributor so I'm not running it rich and destroying the oil.
Still haven't figured out why the price of motor oil hasn't dropped. I think the 5 quart bottle I bought last night was more expensive than it was last summer. What gives. Thats another thread.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I checked my Volvo service parts manual for the difference between the '83 and newer dist. Volvo lists the same dist. from '83 (B23) to '85 (B230). Which tells me it isn't a physical difference but electrical. If you use an '86-'88 dist; install an '83 hall-effect sensor and you should be able to run the engine according to spec. Maybe the hall-effect produces a different signal or frequency for the ecu that's not compatable between the 2.0 and 2.2. I know that they use diff. plug ends.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Going out on a limb here.....
http://www.autohausaz.com/index.html
According to this site there were three different Hall Sensors/Senders used between 83 and 85. By their listing the round plug sensor was for the white cap distributor only. Bosch has 2 different ones depending on the 10 or 14mm shaft (both with rectangular plugs). The newer distributors have the thicker shafts if I am not mistaken.
Questions:
1. What is the diameter of the shaft of the white cap distributor?
2. If a newer distributor (with a thicker shaft) is installed in an older block, what are the chances that the drive gear on the bottom would be slightly different than that on the thinner shaft?
3. Could such a difference cause the timing to not be steady thus making the hall sensor wonder WTF?
4. Would the distributor and intermediate shaft possibly need to be mated from the same model engine?
--
Harold Thompson '84 245 Virgos
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Hi Harold,
Good observations.
From my experience, the round plug was used with both Chrysler (white cap) distributors and Bosch. I've only seen the round plugs on 83 and earlier, but mated to both orange and white cap units.
The Hall sensors are themselves all the same. The three different assemblies provide mounting to accommodate the geometry of the distributors they fit; Chrysler, and the two (thick and thin) Bosch. Actually, I think there may be 4 assemblies available, because two of the Bosch have the same fit but come with either round or rectangular connectors. Apparently the round-plugged Bosch is rarer than I thought.
I'm certain the drive gear and i-shaft mate identically in all models.
I haven't proved it with experience (or this thread would be much shorter) but believe the only difference in the Hall-type distributor part numbers going from 84 on is due to the beefier shaft. A Hall-effect switch is a simple device that only reports whether the trigger wheel's vane is blocking or not blocking the magnetic path. That's why I posed the yet-unanswered question regarding a possible difference between vane window ratios. If Volvo changed that, it would require a matching change in the ignition computer.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Always remember that you're unique. Just like everyone else.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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--it just seems to just all of a sudden kick in, from running cold and having loss of power/hesitation, to driving with an instant increase in power--
--it changes instantly from running poor to having some pick up and go--
My late 84 does this very same thing. While running poorly, if I mash down the accelerator it sounds like something is limiting how quickly the RPMs build until it gets to a certain point and then it suddenly takes off. Only things neither the P.O. nor I have replaced are O2 sensor, Chrysler box, distributor and injectors. Am thinking it may be possessed by a demonic K-Car.
--
Harold Thompson '84 245 Virgos
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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OK, there's this one nagging doubt in my mind about the interchangeability. You might be able to verify if you have your old distrib and the 85 to compare side by side. Check to see if the ratio between the open and closed portions of the vane is different. Because the dwell angle is chosen by the V/C computer, I can't imagine why there would be a change in that trigger ratio, but the fact remains, the 85- distributor has a different part number from the 84 and late 83.
If it would help, I could send you one from 83 or 84, either way.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Generally speaking, you aren't learning much when your lips are moving.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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thanks for the offer and help. I'll try the throttle position switch first with the 85 plus see how the old chrysler will run. I'll have to splice in the old round connector again but oh well. If your looking to sell a distributor I'd be happy to buy one. The only yard around here is owned by a bugger of a guy who over charges and acts like he's got a monopoly on 240's, which he does.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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In re-reading the thread, I notice never once do you mention setting timing. The symptom you describe makes me think of the vacuum (load) portion of the curve is what is getting you out of the doldrums and back into power, but it is not kicking in soon enough. Those 83 and 84 LH cars we had would accelerate well even with the load signal missing (vac line plugged), running advance purely based on rpm. Have you been troubleshooting with a vacuum gauge and timing light?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
If you lend someone $20 and never see that person again, it was probably worth it.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
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Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I set the timing when I replaced the distributor. The timing should be alright. Although I remember the timing seemed to jump a little , it wasn't always right on where I set it. Meaning if I put it at 12 degrees (can't remember if its called - or + but done correct) then the timing would at times jump a degree before or after at times. Sort of unsettled a bit. I'd have to get the car running (dead battery now) and check it again to make sure I'm thinking totally correct but that was what I remember. I've read that the B23 doesn't have the crank pulley that can wear weird as with the 85-88. Maybe a timing belt off ? But then that wouldn't make sense because it just all of a sudden kicks in. I don't have a vacuum gauge or know how to use one although I have a link to a site that tells what kind of problems one can find with one.
Thanks for the help Art. It would be great to get this car running right after only driving it minimal in the past 2.5 years I've owned it.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I guess I can infer you had a light on it. Maybe one of those new adjustable strobes that let you dial in the advance and just look at the zero mark on the timing cover.
Anyhow, I'd be very happy if my old distributors only jumped around a degree. You're right, the B23 has a solid crank pulley, not a vibration damper like the B230. But your valve timing could be off. A foolproof way to check that is by the mark at the top of the cam gear.
If you're not in a real hurry to save the 83, but just want to keep heading in that direction, you might wait for jimo's trial swap to see if he gets results like you do, when he uses one of the plentiful 85-88 distributors in his 83.
I take it you've seen the distributor curves for the 83/84 V/C ignition? That "sudden kick in" you speak of reminds me of them. I was thinking it may be more noticeable if you're starting from a late baseline timing:
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
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Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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First off thanks for all of the help you have given me on 3 of our cars that had confounded me.
I have a quite a few of Volvo's green manuals that I wanted to post on the Board but when I try the connection fails. When I try adding it to posts it doesn't seem to work. I know you've described how to do this before. Could you send me the link. Thanks, Aaron.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
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Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Sorry to hijack your post but since Art raised my issue here, thought I'd go ahead. I believe I may be closer to solving my distributor problem and hopefully it does not involve rebuilding or finding another distributor. I may find out for sure when I can get the darn thing off - maybe tomorrow. Here is a link to a picture of my exact distributor if anyone is interested: http://www.swedishautoparts.com/shop/search.php?MaxCount=10&gogo=2&extra=1332684&myCat1=z&a1=Start+Search
You can enlarge the picture and see what looks like a nylon clip that keeps the wire pigtail immobile where it exits the distributor body. My clip has completely disintegrated letting the wires move freely within. After studying the inner anatomy of this distributor from a junk one I just found, you can tell how easy it would be for the 4 blades spinning inside to either nick the wires or completely cut them if they get out of place. I may have enough damage to a wire to cause intermittent shorting, at least that's what I'm hoping for. I have had this car for about a year and have driven it maybe 50 miles. I am hoping to make a repair to the wire(s) only and get out on the road at long last. Does anyone know the part no. for this clip? Again, sorry for stepping on your post.
Jim
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Was the junk yard distributor any good, same plug and year? Not sure the part number is but why not just exchange distributors, they aren't that hard to replace although I'd recommend the bentley to help with installation and you'll need a timing light. My chrysler with the same round plug and wire lead had a nice short in the plugs lead. I'd have it bucking like crazy if I didn't get the wire to sit just right. Thats why I switch distributors even though I had found a decent top/hall sender thing to it on a junker.
I've seen some rebuilt for just over a $100 that are tempting. Wondering if anyone has ever had a "Snap" brand rebuild and whether or not they are any good.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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The junkyard distributor is out of an '84. Part no. on the side is: 0 237 506 003. Identical except that the hall sender plug is rectangular version mounted on the side of the distributor body. Why not just remove my round plug and solder on the rectangular, and more common, plug? The wires on the junk part need repair, but the rest of it seems okay. I wouldn't really know until I tried it in the car. I'd like your opinion - thanks! Jim
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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Thats a tough one if both the distributors have wiring problems. I think you mean the really small three wires in the distributor top are damaged?
I soldered on the rectangular plug which was pretty easy other than its done right down there next to the distributor. Its a tough call on trying to replace the hall sensor on top since it sounds tricky. If you can get a distributor that works with the rectangle plug I'd splice in the different connector. The round plug has that lead which is prone to have problems shorting out. At least with my chrysler it did. That eliminates that one possible break down in the future. Either way it sounds like you need a new/used distributor like me. I'm still contemplating the Snap remanned that I keep seeing on the web. But before I get desperate I've got to save on the $$. I'm also going to have a mechanic I know look for one through his sources. If I find a new bosch for a good deal I'll let you know.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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The cam gear is one of those adjustable IPD blue lightweight gears that came installed on the car when I bought it. The charts don't make sense to me. I have an older timing light that is unadjustable.
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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The cam gear is one of those adjustable IPD blue lightweight gears that came installed on the car when I bought it.
Cool. Have you tried adjusting it?
The charts don't make sense to me.
My fault, the key was on the previous page (below).
I have an older timing light that is unadjustable.
Me too.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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I was just contemplating this swap for my 84 as I have the wiring from my 87. I ultimately decided against it as the only major change I could find was the O2 sensor which I plan to replace with a wide band anyway. as for crappy insulating I got some high temp electrical tape and pulled away all the bad crap and, well, I'll tell you how it all goes....
Hope that helps!!
Andrew
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posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
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please see below at bottom of thread - oops!
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