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Don't bother to patch it. The weak points are the small sections of muffler tube that extends from the mufflers. Usually the connection on the passenger side going into the muffler is where it will break. Just get $88 cat-back system and be done with. If you see any rust at any of the joints beware. It may break right there. The pipe to the cat converter is held with a clamp, not welded. But by now it may be fused to the converter and you will have to carefully use a chisel and maybe a saw to c...
You're going to need a very long screwdriver or pry bar for both tasks. Place your pry bar on the rear muffler hanger, passenger side, and just pry it over until you can slide the muffler off of it. Once it is off you can then move the muffler over from driver to passenger side and get it off the other hanger. With the center muffler it get a bit tougher but you will be doing the same thing more or less. Prying the muffler off of the rubber donut. Putting it back is a PIA. IIRC there are 2 hang...
Dear Fellow Brickboarders,
Hope you're well. I've always wanted to look at the in-radiator Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) cooler. I just retired a 12-year-old Nissens radiator (made in Denmark, in January 2003; installed in March, 2005).
The ATF cooler - which shows no signs of corrosion - is a double-wall copper tube, 1.25" (32mm) in outer diameter and about 12.5" (31 cm) long. At each end, a copper fitting is brazed to outer wall of the tube. The cooler weighs about 18 ounces (500 gram...
In my experience a hiss when the brake pedal is pressed means the brake booster's diaphragm is leaking. I'm referring to the big 8" rubber diaphragm within the booster (thats the size for my 940). My previous booster did that last time and idle became erratic for a while. If fact almost every time I pressed the pedal the idle became erratic. This how I came to conclude about the leaking diaphragm. Try doing that on your car at idle.
The big diaphragm separates the vacuum side (the one facing b...
Dear Mr. Weekend,
Hope you're well. It's possible that the brake booster's check valve has failed. This valve is a round black (or white) plastic unit (Volvo Part #270596, if your 960 is a '95 model) mounted in a black rubber grommet at the "ten o'clock" position.
This check valve - Bosch part No. 0204120018 - can be found at: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Power-Brake-Booster-0204120018/dp/B00757N5BC .
The booster units seem to be pretty durable. As the check valve is relatively cheap, acce...
Thanks very much KGV,
You did a heck of a lot of research on the subject. I also have a few pages of notes of fcp, ipd, eeuro, tasca and found a possible (and relatively inexpensive) solution using glass DEPO lenses from Latvia. They seem to have decent reviews so I think I will purchase one lens - just to see...(no pun intended) and provide a report on the bb if others are following this post.
Anyway they are available on ebay and Amazon but there is some discrepancy as to whether they w...
Dexron is the wrong type.
In some instances, a mechanical or hydraulic device may be able to use a range of lubricants, yet when you use a specific lubricant, stick with it.
When I wrote that, I may have been confusing automatic transmission with power steering pumps. It is the rack, that more so, requires the "Type F". A rebuilt rack that came from a rear wheel drive Volvo would use the same lubricant specified originally for it.
The wonders of synthetic fluid allow it to meet a broader spe...
Nice diagnostics. That #61 terminal should be about what you see and not zero ohms to ground, normally, I think. I've never measured with a multimeter, so in a few minutes I'll check a spare on the shelf and come back to this thread with any change in thinking. What you report seems to me plenty "ground" to effect the lamp test.
Edit: I checked two alternators. 68 and 70 ohms respectively, regardless of probe polarity. Both have Bosch regulators, which have the 68 ohm resistor....
Absolutely not! I don't think there aren't that many C30 owners hang out here. Based on my online research, it sounds like there 2 common issues.
1. battery gets drained by sirius radio. You can't turn it off.
2. rear seat belt buckle gets stuck.
How is the C30? Comfy?
Check out http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/200-series/ for very good information. It is downloadable and is free.
I just spent way too much time undoing a headpipe/exhaust manifold connection on a 240. I climbed under the car with a 15 mm 6-point socket, extension and breaker bar fully expecting to resurface within ten minutes.
Unlike the many other times I had done this task, the headpipe flange nuts were unyielding. Even using the blue flame wrench resulted in the royal pain-in-the-ass of two twisted off studs.
I was puzzled because I never had that problem before no matter how many rust belt winters ...
Always use antisieze unless otherwise specified, example: Engine oil is specified on B20 rod bolts. (All aftermarket rods come with their own lube) Using lube on the threads and mating surfaces reduces the friction at those places and allows much more clamping force to be applied by the fastener without extra stress.
'Go dry or die' sounds fairly moronic to me. I doubt anyone who says that is any kind of tradesman.
69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual