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The Volvo Resource: brickboard.com

The Volvo Owner's Resource.

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Need help with your classic Volvo? Post a question to the RWD forum.

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Volvo: Brickboard Best Posts

[AWD] [850] [1996] idle uneven ONLY when half warm

I would try cleaning out the idle air control, the round thing in front of the throttle and under the throttle cover. Just take it off, spray a bunch of throttle body cleaner inside, shake it vigorously, and pour out the black liquid a couple of times. Make sure that the IAC hoses aren't cracked and leaking air. Also check that the electrical plug isn't corroded. The IAC should humm when you turn the key to position II, before engine start. -- Keeping it running is better than buying new

[RWD] [900] [1992] top radiator to transmission connector very stiff

With a large adjustable wrench-hold the large nut in place with counter torque and with and flarenut wrench loosen the transmission line nut by a hard hit with your palm. Jimo

[RWD] AC lines backing off compressor

You could use a bit of loctite blue on the fastener's thread if you want. Normally I would tighten until snug then about a 1/8 of a turn more. All sealing is done by the O rings. Its a normal practice to replace the O rings at every AC service regardless of the condition of old rings. For this purpose you should have an assortment of O rings (get a kit) for AC works. This is better than ordering individual O rings according to its parts number and economical in the long run. Using Nylog blue (f...

[RWD] [444-544] Rear axle upgrade for PV 444-544 ??

Hi Doug, I installed the 1990 Ford Ranger 8.8 rear end and it uses all the stock Volvo 544 suspension parts. Later model Explorers used rear disc brakes but I do not know if the dimensions would be the same as the Ranger. I would "assume" that someone makes an adapter to put disc brakes on the Ranger axle. Just narrow the rear axle housing on the long side so it will take another short side axle. There was plenty of meat to drill and tap the housing to be able to install the torque rod assembly...

[RWD] [1800] trouble removing 1800 tranny

I would think the input shaft is frozen to the pilot bearing. I'd elevate the transmission end to get oil to seep down the input shaft through the clutch fork opening. Use your favorite product. I like straight ATF. You will still probably have to pry it apart but give the lubricate a few days to work. - Dave

[RWD] [200] Engine out to seal leaks... should I just buy an L-block and rebuild and install it instead?

The original poster did not mention the mileage on the motor or how well it runs. Oil squirters would be a fine upgrade but hardly necessary to achieve longevity. At a little over 300k my 1980 245 has instant oil pressure on startup (to my mind indicating a good oil pump and no excessive bearing wear), uses no oil on long trips and will run to max rpm readily. I've owned it since 125k and have done oil changes (Castrol GTX) every 3k (or close to it). A rebuild ($) would only be indicated by...

[AWD] [S70] A/C comes on ice cold then...

Your car does not have a temp sensor in the evaporator like the newer models. I hope you don't move the temp switch to max cold every time you start the car. Try keeping it at a reasonable temperature setting and let the ECC regulate the temperature. It is possible that you have too much R134a in the system... The gas expands when hot. -- Keeping it running is better than buying new

[RWD] [900] Revenge of the 940 -Heater valve and heater hose

You folks are going to love this... So yesterday I write a long post here in reply to OnlyVolvo regarding mysterious cooling system problems in a 940. No special reason for my post, just thought I was able to give some added insight into someone's problems based on my related experiences last year. So in that post here and relating my tales, I clearly insulted my wife's 940 for its age and all the problems it gave me last year (constantly begging for my attention, the selfish beast, I mean the...

[RWD] [200] Annoying clunk rattle

Check the nut at the rear of the control arm, where it comes through the bushing. It can most easily be reached from the engine bay with a 18mm box wrench. Worked for me, after a long exhausting search. -- Bruce S. near D.C.

[RWD] Open letter to Art Benstein re. the future

Dear Art, I feel compelled to respond to a statement you made in a recent reply regarding your reduced participation here on the brickboard. I wish others to appreciate your situation as much as I do -I've been there myself. First off, we are all so glad to know that you are alive and well and any fears we may have had were unfounded. No amount of thanks and accolades could ever convey how much all your friends on the brickboard appreciate you and everything you have done for us and the Volvo...

[RWD] Art Benstein posted more recently on Turbobricks ...

Ok, here's a post for the "ALL/ALL" forum. Really I'm here, but "anyone else" is doing fine as most of us are just looking for expedient solutions and bypasses to irritations, not the sort of root cause analysis to waste Jarrod's bandwidth. I'll post maybe if a question hasn't been covered a dozen times before with my photos and links. Dave, if none of your brake lights are lighting because of the bulb-out sensor, the problem is both simple and common. The solder joint between terminal 54...

©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2014. All material except where indicated.



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