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i would not assume your transmission is failing. you state after flushing the transmission now shift through 1,2,3 normally but does not go into over drive.
yes the solenoid would be the next thing to remove. you could simply bypass the solenoid which simply eliminates the option to manually downshift from 4th to 3rd.
if the transmission is good with the solenoid bypassed shifting up to the 4th......OD........ becomes automatic.
if it still will not shift to OD after bypassing then you might...
1992 745 217K
The scent of coolant became evident during last year's heater season but half a bottle of Bar's Leak put it at the back of my Volvo to-do list. This year the smell was accompanied with the defrost setting adding condensation to the windows.
I can not thank the contributors to the FAQ's enough for their submissions. Every bit of support is appreciated in completing the heater core replacement. The extensive photos of the procedure submitted by Ari Rocchio were especially helpf...
FYI. I replaced the original (I think) oil separator at 212,000 miles or about 2 years ago. It was partially clogged and it made the new rear cam seal to leak. I kept the old unit and didn't know what to do with it. Today, I decided to cut into 3 pieces and take a look.
The overall, the chamber is clean but the top part of the vent hole area has a heavy build up. I look forward to cut and see my current oil separator for a comparison near future. Thank you as always.
The arrow indicates the pin is an output on the module. The ground symbol inside gives you a clue what to expect when active. These look like open collector outputs, meaning they supply a "ground" to the external solenoid or relay they are activating. In all these cases I would feel safe substituting a physical ground (jumper to ground) to create the same effect, or if you wanted to see if they were active, a test light referenced to battery + would be lighted when active.
Instead of jumpin...
Yesterday I installed my second set of the DJ Auto E-Code headlamps and wanted to post some brief impressions for those unsure of whether to make the leap.
I have been fairly well impressed with the quality of construction on these headlamps - the entire assembly. Many people have reported that the assembly does not sit flush with the sheet metal, thus, there is a possibility of pulling the mounting studs from the plastic. I found that to be the case on my '92 wagon that had had the fender rep...
Got that right Dan. Said goodbye to engine wear troubles when I got rid of the cars that were not Volvos years ago.
Art Benstein near Baltimore
A man will pay $20 for a $10 item he needs. A woman will pay $10 for a $20 item that she doesn't need.
May I make a suggestion to see if it will work for you.
Take one of the old rubber bushings and cut the sleeve out of it.
Using a drill or I prefer an end mill, to open up the hole in the alternator housing and insert that bushing.
Even if you do not get a press fit (you can peen it, if you like) it will repair the hole with steel. This will now be of a larger diameter touching aluminum.
The larger steel diameter will spread the load by increasing it into larger internal surface area. The ...
"Somehow these two things occurred together"
More likely one contributed to the other. If the battery was not getting a sufficient supply of electrons from the alternator and was already marginal due to age, the alternator brush issue likely dealt it the final blow.
Just make sure that you alternator ground wire is also in good shape or you could be fighting an intermittent issue down the road.
If you're looking for more authoritative braking, why not try a pad with more bite? Cheaper than replacing rotors and calipers with a big brake kit.
Malfunctioning Volvo Guard high security alarm. (Only 900 I ever had the pleasure of working on had one)
Art Benstein near Baltimore
A Fluke salesman gave me his card, it said...
"If it works, it's a Fluke!"
I will have to say Trichard has put the best advice out there. Jump into soldering!
It's one of the easiest skills you can acquire with some practice. You can start with an inexpensive pencil type soldering gun for about $10 and a small tube of electrical rosin soldering wire for a buck or so.
Start with tips of some copper wire and heat the wire up and touch the solder to the wire until it melts. You can get it to flow more readily if you place the solder right where the two mee...
Remove the battery negative cable.
Once you have removed the old brush/regulator assembly, inspect the commutator for excessive wear. Do this with a mirror, a strong light and rotate the alternator pulley in increments. You will have to loosen the belts.
During installation you will need to retain the new brushes in their holder with a small drill bit. Once the brushes clear the edge of the commutator , the drill bit is removed.
While your at it, check alternator ground wire, bushings and be...
1. it works but not consistently
if it works the teeth are ok
if it works the motor is ok
if it works but sporadically this points to a 'failure to communicate" (lol)
between the incoming voltage and the motor
Cracked solder locations? Well, if that's the issue, I don't think I'm going to go there. I examined them, and as far as I can see, they look okay, but I don't think I want to mess with trying to reinforce them with more solder. I'm concerned I may screw them up, add too much solder or ...
Not an option but it can be removed and replaced with a plate, available from aftermarket sources. This eliminates the three speed downshift selection and keeps all four speeds operating all the time.
I've camped in my 87 245 many times on the beach in Texas. We usually camp in the winter, so it's sunny and 65 during the day, and in the 40s at night.
The amount of glass in the wagon can work both ways--it gives you a wonderful, open feeling at night, seeing the stars on the beach. Waking up to a beach sunrise over the Gulf of Mexico in the back of a Volvo is one of my happiest memories.
You can buy Reflectix rolls at Home Depot and make windo...
The drivers door handle on my 65 544 drooped a lot. The passenger side, witch is used a lot less is fine.
I took the door latch out of the door and checked it out. The only problem with it, other than needing lubrication, was the square hole that the square rod attached to the door handle passes through. The hole was worn especially near the corners. The rod on the handle was in good condition but much easier to make it bigger than to make the square hole smaller.
I put a small weld bead (MIG ...
"The problem part of the clip is the bottom leg of the plus sign the clip resembles"
I haven't applied them, but have removed them by knocking the shaft (vertical part of "plus sign") into the panel with a punch. That is, the shaft SLIDES in/out of the clip. The new shafts may be stuck in place so appear to be a one piece "plus sign".
So you don't cut the bottom "leg" of the plus sign. Just push it in. Place the clip over the hole and tap the shaft lightly with a hammer until it is flush w...
STOP! Don't trim any of the clips. Fit the fatter circular part of the clip into the body hole. Then tap in the center pin to secure it.When installing the trim you will need to angle it slightly them smack it firmly in place clip section by section. Hard to explain but when you start it will become clear. If the clips aren't going in the hole it could be that the hole has too much paint in it. You can carefully ream out some of the paint without chipping the paint. Good luck!
I wondered if the contact pin under spring pressure would eventually worry its way through thin plastic. Many reports of false positives without the shuttle moving. But I stopped short of peeling the band off a new part to see how thick it really was.
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Marathon runners with bad footwear suffer the agony of defeat.
It's a slow agony reading through all this; how about, send me your address and I'll send you a working power stage. If it works, send me millions of dollars.
Or at least a few.
bikeguy (at) fastmail (dot) fm
The photo isn't very clear, but I think I see side load wear on the brushes. They are made from carbon, so they don't melt, but it could look that way in the fuzzy picture because the slip rings are out of round or deeply grooved and the end play on the bearing has increased significantly.
Edit: I see your second photo now, clearly. I think your alt is in need of a rebuild.
Lamp test mode (check owners manual) switch to KP-II and see all the warning lamps on. This is so you know the ligh...