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My wife and three of her roller derby friends decided to take a roller derby road trip from Austin to Nashville this weekend.
Envision four well-built women (all between 150 and 200 lbs) and their gear stuffed into our 1987 245. It's a 1000 pound payload.
They left behind a Toyota Prius and a Honda Accord coupe--in other words, they picked a 30 year old station wagon over the more modern options.
I spent the day yesterday going over the various systems--brakes, tires, engine, transmission, ...
Update 2: they made it home to Austin on Monday night. No problems--everyone had a good time.
Whoah, there Nelly!
A huge number of Volvos go hundreds of thousands of miles on filters that are marked Volvo.
You, or others can do better on the web?
Anecdotal evidence trumps Volvo's testing and experience?
Would your observations of construction be better than Volvo's research?
I used to get Mann oil filters from Groton . Mann states that their branded filters have the same construction and specs as their OEM filters.
I submit that filters are relatively inexpensive - no place to pin...
Update: they arrived safely and comfortably yesterday evening. All is well! They will play two bouts and then move on to Hot Springs, AR for Sunday night. More later!
This trip will bring our brick to 296,000 miles.
You can remove the wheel rotor to access the dust/splash shield.
You can use regular jobber length drills.
A grade 5 bolt can still be drilled as they are no so much harden but are made of better quality steel.
A decent HSS drill will work but a tungsten colbalt drill will do it without any problems of having to resharpen it.
You must keep steady pressure on the drill to keep the cutting edge engaged. Turning a drill slower helps you feed more per revolution. Nothing dulls a drill faster t...
I also have a 97 965, what kittysgreyvolvo said, especially the part about the timing belt and idlers, in case you didn't know the white block is an interference engine. If you don't know how many miles the timing belt has on it, I would change it, if you change the timing belt, you might consider the water pump also. Also info about 960 upgrades on Turbobricks.
There is a known problem with the fuel rail, the end facing the radiator, will leak fuel, due to vibration, mine did. As a st...
The fuel pressure regulator has a rubber diaphram that will crack with old age. Easy to check, the FPR has a vacuum hose that runs across the manifold and to the vacuum tree. Pull the hose off the vacuum tree and sniff it for gasoline, if you smell any or a little dribbles out, get a new FPR.
When my FPR died, it took a while to get the engine started and then at engine start, a puff of black smoke came out of the tail pipe. Much too rich.
As for a high idle, there is an air leak into the ...
Every time I've felt that vibration when braking that comes up through the seat, It's been the rear u-joint.
Bruce S. near D.C.
Get some peppermint oil and cotton balls. Put a few drops of the oil on the cotton balls and place them where the mice are. They will leave. I use it in all our parked cars and tractors over the winter. The peppermint oil messes with their lungs. And traps. I like the Victor traps with a metal bait pedal. With a little practice you can adjust the force needed to trip the trap and nobody gets away.
My 93 240 wouldn't start this morning, the strange thing was it seemed to be affecting the starter. At first I thought maybe a bad starter? Then I remembered Art's discovery of a failed CPS firing the plugs before they should and forcing the starter to stop. Not having a scope I was not able to test it like Art. I had not replace the CPS yet on this car in the 11 years I have had it.
There was a small split in the insulation near the connector so I decided to replace it and see if this sol...
Real proud of myself today after succeeding at replacement of a light bulb without shattering 25-year-old sun-baked plastic, I am.
But I had help. The help was in the form of a spare lamp to examine and practice on. Thought I'd share what I learned, since I feel as though I've learned this before the hard way and promptly forgotten it.
The idea is to push the heavy "catch" inward away from the cover without inflicting any force on the li...
Just a note on the old style hinges with the grease fitting. If they haven't been greased regularly they may not want to take fresh grease. A few light passes with a propane torch will often get them to flow. -- Dave
It most likely is the steering shaft u-joint near where the steering shaft attaches to the steering rack. Try spraying it liberally with WD-40 while moving the steering from lock to lock for a few minutes. This could take a few applications to loosen the u-joint. Been down that road before with my 240 and 850. Your car is now old enough to require that maintenance. Will need to be done every few years or so.
Hope that is the simple solution to your problem...:)
When you exercise your steering, put 3 or 4 pieces of cardboard stacked under each front wheel to make things easier for your steering.
The connector you are looking for is the one they buried above your left foot. It is rarely a problem, but I gather you already know the wiring in the back of the car so this is where you're headed.
The yellow wire is in pin 20.
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Eventually you will reach a point when you stop lying about your age and start bragging about it.
For LH 2.2 the overboost switch shuts off the fuel injection relay. The switch is mounted near/on the EZK on 740s and 1984-87 760s. The switch is near the coolant reservoir on 1988-89 760s. The Turbo+ kits came with a switch with a higher pressure setting. You can dig out the potting over the adjustment screw and turn up the pressure setting.
It shouldn't be necessary to shut the engine off to get your car to run right. As soon as the boost level drops, the switch closes and the fuel pump re...
Be sure to take a picture of the connector before you open her up. To know where each wire was in order.
When you get it running again, I would put a volt meter across the battery terminals and check the voltage with the engine idling. I would then turn on the A/C (set blower max) and the head lights and see if the charge voltage drops below the standing battery voltage (battery voltage without the engine running and everything turned off). If the alternator cannot at least maintain battery voltage with this load on it, you probably have a problem with the alternator.
If you're having intermitt...
Check your alt ground wire. The ground wire is the short wire from alt body connected to engine. While engine is running alt voltage is rarely 14+ volts unless you've modified the alt to charge more by installing an adjustable voltage regulator. If your alt is stock standard then it should read between 13.4 to 13.6 volts if the batt's fully charged and lower if the batt is being charged. Possible reasons for that 14+ volt in a stock setup could be failing ground wire and/or poor batt connection...
Since you just drove the car for 15 miles the system voltage and a good battery should have stabilized at less than 14 volts. We are talking tenths here, so I hope you are using a digital meter.
The car is cranking over like it's got a good battery in it, I assume?
If you had lights on or other current draws the voltage should be down a bit lower. A .5 lower or like 13.2 being the lowest while idling.
If the regulator is seeing more of a voltage drop of the system it will want to and s...
A while back I posted a question on how best to adjust the door window regulator on my '89 744 because the glass when up had a 1/4" gap at the top-rear vertical edge that allowed an amazing amount of air and wind-noise to blast into the drivers head.
The answer I got was confirmation that this is a reasonable common problem, but that there is no provision built into the regulator system to adjust the tracking of the window.
I've come up with what fixes the problem with what I consider minimal...
As I read all the responses to your "dilemma" a thought came to mind. Someone said he might, (if i got this correctly) get (if the price is right) another AW70 for a sort of "spare". Good thought. Just adding my 2 cents here tho>> I had occasion to look for another AW70 trans for our '89 wagon, but luck steered me to an AW71L, with actual 125K on it from a newer 940 wagon that had been broadsided just enough to call the brick totaled.
The âone owner since newâ...
1992 745 217K
The scent of coolant became evident during last year's heater season but half a bottle of Bar's Leak put it at the back of my Volvo to-do list. This year the smell was accompanied with the defrost setting adding condensation to the windows.
I can not thank the contributors to the FAQ's enough for their submissions. Every bit of support is appreciated in completing the heater core replacement. The extensive photos of the procedure submitted by Ari Rocchio were especially helpf...
i would not assume your transmission is failing. you state after flushing the transmission now shift through 1,2,3 normally but does not go into over drive.
yes the solenoid would be the next thing to remove. you could simply bypass the solenoid which simply eliminates the option to manually downshift from 4th to 3rd.
if the transmission is good with the solenoid bypassed shifting up to the 4th......OD........ becomes automatic.
if it still will not shift to OD after bypassing then you might...