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Volvo: Brickboard Best Posts

[RWD] [900] A/C reduction on acceleration adjustable?

Your problem is most likely related to a vacuum leak where one of your vacuum valves looses vacuum and opens a flap causing you to get hot air. Try putting the fan on position 1 and turning off the radio and when you accelerate and then let off the glass, listen to see if you hear one of the vacuum valves. Also check under the hood to see if there is a vacuum leak on one of the hoses that go thru the firewall on the passenger side for the air conditioning.There are some little valves in the ho...

[RWD] [200] [1993] Cranks, no start -- '93 240

What diagram are you working from? No continuity on the grey wires (85;86) at the main relay on the L fender when cranking. "Main relay" on L fender?? No voltage between #4 and #2 at the power amplifier, ignition on. Should be battery on #4, the blue wire. How exactly are you probing this? Tested the CPS cable to the ICU at its connector in the engine compartment, found #2 voltage with ignition on was 3.1 V; #3 was connected to ground, and #1, which should be 250 Ohms, wa...

[RWD] [900] AW-71 Shifting Great!

I took jwalker & kittysgreyvolvo advise and did a 3 gallon ATF flush using an IPD hose I bought years ago. Refilled with synthetic ATF and a bottle of K&W TransX. Problem solved! Actually shifts stronger than before. Thanks to those who responded

[RWD] [900] [1995] A/C Universal Compressor Oil and Leak Detection

Now that you've mentioned it, I just cleaned my oily engine compartment & parts with undiluted Simple Green. What a remarkable cleaner! Okay. You mentioned you just have few seconds before the vacuum was lost. Thats a BIG leak. Listen close to these (big leak points): 1) compressor oil seal - listen near to clutch plate 2) crimped rubber hoses - listen near to crimped ends 3) condenser - dismantle the front grille, listen near front of condenser 4) leave the evaporator alone, not yet this tim...

[RWD] [900] [1995] A/C Universal Compressor Oil and Leak Detection

Yes the system must have lost much oil. Leave the compressor alone for the time being. Find the leak first. Worry about replacing oil later. Regards, Amarin.

[RWD] [900] [1995] A/C Universal Compressor Oil and Leak Detection

Dear jd620, I think you plan to find the leak using dyed compressor oil. A good plan however if oil added too much you could disrupt the system oil balance i.e existing oil plus newly added oil. Cooling (i.e heat transfer) would be affected with too much oil in the system. The extra oil would much coat the insides of the evaporator/condenser tubes hindering heat transfer. The SAFER way is to use R134a with added dye. The Behr oil is of PAO variety with a viscosity of 68. Your Seiko-Seiki comp...

[RWD] [120-130] Putting pertonix and new coil questions

GD; Cutting into armored cable is not necessary...diode cable is not necessary...tt's all covered here: http://www.sw-em.com/123Ignition_in_a_Volvo_with_Armored_Cable.htm Good Hunting!

[RWD] 200 owners - actually all owners - Try reading the 700/900 FAQ !!!

Time after time, I see basic problems posted that can be solved by reading the 700/900 FAQ. This FAQ is extensive and discusses many problems that apply to models outside the 700/900 family of Volvos. For example, a friend's daughter visited us at work, and I was amazed to see that the dash in her late model 240 was identical to that in our '88 745 GLE. All sorts of systems in Volvos predated 700/900s and were used after that series as well. Often, I can find repair information for a post t...

[RWD] [200] [1986] How to slide the loose, unclamped tailpipe from the 240GL Wagon, and to disconnect the muffler from its mount.

Don't bother to patch it. The weak points are the small sections of muffler tube that extends from the mufflers. Usually the connection on the passenger side going into the muffler is where it will break. Just get $88 cat-back system and be done with. If you see any rust at any of the joints beware. It may break right there. The pipe to the cat converter is held with a clamp, not welded. But by now it may be fused to the converter and you will have to carefully use a chisel and maybe a saw to c...

[RWD] [200] [1986] How to slide the loose, unclamped tailpipe from the 240GL Wagon, and to disconnect the muffler from its mount.

You're going to need a very long screwdriver or pry bar for both tasks. Place your pry bar on the rear muffler hanger, passenger side, and just pry it over until you can slide the muffler off of it. Once it is off you can then move the muffler over from driver to passenger side and get it off the other hanger. With the center muffler it get a bit tougher but you will be doing the same thing more or less. Prying the muffler off of the rubber donut. Putting it back is a PIA. IIRC there are 2 hang...

[RWD] [900] Post-Mortem on Nissens Radiator

Dear Fellow Brickboarders, Hope you're well. I've always wanted to look at the in-radiator Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) cooler. I just retired a 12-year-old Nissens radiator (made in Denmark, in January 2003; installed in March, 2005). The ATF cooler - which shows no signs of corrosion - is a double-wall copper tube, 1.25" (32mm) in outer diameter and about 12.5" (31 cm) long. At each end, a copper fitting is brazed to outer wall of the tube. The cooler weighs about 18 ounces (500 gram...

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