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In my experience a hiss when the brake pedal is pressed means the brake booster's diaphragm is leaking. I'm referring to the big 8" rubber diaphragm within the booster (thats the size for my 940). My previous booster did that last time and idle became erratic for a while. If fact almost every time I pressed the pedal the idle became erratic. This how I came to conclude about the leaking diaphragm. Try doing that on your car at idle.
The big diaphragm separates the vacuum side (the one facing b...
Dear Mr. Weekend,
Hope you're well. It's possible that the brake booster's check valve has failed. This valve is a round black (or white) plastic unit (Volvo Part #270596, if your 960 is a '95 model) mounted in a black rubber grommet at the "ten o'clock" position.
This check valve - Bosch part No. 0204120018 - can be found at: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Power-Brake-Booster-0204120018/dp/B00757N5BC .
The booster units seem to be pretty durable. As the check valve is relatively cheap, acce...
Thanks very much KGV,
You did a heck of a lot of research on the subject. I also have a few pages of notes of fcp, ipd, eeuro, tasca and found a possible (and relatively inexpensive) solution using glass DEPO lenses from Latvia. They seem to have decent reviews so I think I will purchase one lens - just to see...(no pun intended) and provide a report on the bb if others are following this post.
Anyway they are available on ebay and Amazon but there is some discrepancy as to whether they w...
Dexron is the wrong type.
In some instances, a mechanical or hydraulic device may be able to use a range of lubricants, yet when you use a specific lubricant, stick with it.
When I wrote that, I may have been confusing automatic transmission with power steering pumps. It is the rack, that more so, requires the "Type F". A rebuilt rack that came from a rear wheel drive Volvo would use the same lubricant specified originally for it.
The wonders of synthetic fluid allow it to meet a broader spe...
Oh Boy, now that asking for some guessing from me as I have little experience with ABS.
I have a new to me '92 for only about a year now and cannot tell you if I have ever felt it work.
I have heard the the pedal pluses when it does engage.
A 3 MPH stop sounds like it is way to low to make ABS engage or should I ask, why should it?
How do you know the ABS has taken over?
If the light is flashing on that does not mean it's working but to the contrary.
I have never put much stock int...
Nice diagnostics. That #61 terminal should be about what you see and not zero ohms to ground, normally, I think. I've never measured with a multimeter, so in a few minutes I'll check a spare on the shelf and come back to this thread with any change in thinking. What you report seems to me plenty "ground" to effect the lamp test.
Edit: I checked two alternators. 68 and 70 ohms respectively, regardless of probe polarity. Both have Bosch regulators, which have the 68 ohm resistor....
Absolutely not! I don't think there aren't that many C30 owners hang out here. Based on my online research, it sounds like there 2 common issues.
1. battery gets drained by sirius radio. You can't turn it off.
2. rear seat belt buckle gets stuck.
How is the C30? Comfy?
Check out http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/200-series/ for very good information. It is downloadable and is free.
We have been using Mobil 1 for many years. I change oil every 10K miles and Mann filters every 5K miles. The reason I use this oil is because it is about as cheap as dino oil changed every 3K-5K miles and I don't have to be under the car in January or February here in MN pulling the drain plug and waiting for the containers to empty. Also, the seals last much longer with the synthetic oil. We have 3 of our 8 940s with over 200K miles and the rear main seals just leak a drop or two overnight com...
I just spent way too much time undoing a headpipe/exhaust manifold connection on a 240. I climbed under the car with a 15 mm 6-point socket, extension and breaker bar fully expecting to resurface within ten minutes.
Unlike the many other times I had done this task, the headpipe flange nuts were unyielding. Even using the blue flame wrench resulted in the royal pain-in-the-ass of two twisted off studs.
I was puzzled because I never had that problem before no matter how many rust belt winters ...
Always use antisieze unless otherwise specified, example: Engine oil is specified on B20 rod bolts. (All aftermarket rods come with their own lube) Using lube on the threads and mating surfaces reduces the friction at those places and allows much more clamping force to be applied by the fastener without extra stress.
'Go dry or die' sounds fairly moronic to me. I doubt anyone who says that is any kind of tradesman.
69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual
Some resources for you. With the front suspension subframe, double wishbone suspension of the 110-120-130, and p1800 (and by proxy the 140-160), you have some options to control the compressed spring under the raise Volvo Amazon as part of spring and strut replacement.
Some Volvo OEM green manual action for you. Like you're at the Volvo dealership garage in 1971.
Here are the PDF manuals you wa...
Hi, try this map Art posted elsewhere. I think it was on some other car of your years.
It shows the the two coil relay you are talking about.
Test lights can do that for you. It is confusing with out knowing on what side of the circuit you are on.
A voltage drop of some value (?) still means the light can be on through something else or directly to ground.
If you get 0.0 volts on a voltmeter, but yo...
There's no good news your AMM is not bad. Only news that your measurement did not confirm it.
The usual problem when there is no voltage on the orange wire with key on is a poor connection in the circuit through fuse 6. You'll do well to double check everything you do to trace this and be sure you are understanding what the new meter is telling you. Practice. Repeat each check, because the slightest touch with bad connections can temporarily mend them.
Fixing these cars isn't so much abou...
If you are getting no voltage at the orange wire with key on, the problem is not your AMM. That power comes from the fuel injection relay above your passenger's foot. It depends on power through fuse 6 in the '91.
This may be some help:
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Broken corn chips often resemble Minnesota.
Sorry to assume you already had a multimeter in your possession, as well as some experience using one.
As an owner of 25-year-old cars using computerized spark and electronic fuel injection, I depend on such tools. They help me to avoid swapping parts to see what fixes things, but in your case, I believe you need to swap the AMM next. Eventually you will get familiar with the OBD if you keep the car. Each time you remove power to it (as in disconnect battery) you remove all memory from th...
Ohhh. Holding out on us, eh?
To continue further, you could take some electrical voltage readings on the AMM connector with engine off but key on. Take them by rolling the boot back off of the socket and poking the probe of your voltmeter at the backside of the wire terminals and list by wire color.
Art Benstein near Baltimore
"Doc, I can't stop singing 'The Green, Green Grass of Home.'" "That sounds like Tom Jones Syndrome." "Is it common?" Well, "It's Not Unusual."
Yes, the Bosch blue coil has an internal ballast, which is what the Pertronix needs.
I had the exact same thing happen to me this summer. See my link here:
You have to swap in a known good fuel pump relay first and if that does not work, swap in a known good ECU.
I had both lying around the house and it wound up being the ECU. The original one was the dreaded pink label.
After this episode I went on eBay and purchase another functioning ECU and am currently looking another as I...