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You might be on a good trail as the ECT can cause an overly rich engine response.
If it's unplugged or a bad wire this will cause a false signal or lack of one actually and will make the ECU think its in an Alaskan winter!
Only trouble is, I want to say they rarely fail but that's not never!
There are other things ..... You might have a bad AMM, a leaky cold start injector or still a bad FPR. Especially, if it's not returning the proper amount of fuel back to the gas tank.
Yes, the Bosch blue coil has an internal ballast, which is what the Pertronix needs.
100mm or about 4 inches is ridiculously too much...OK for a showcar, but you wouldn't be able to drive over a painted line without bottoming...don't do it! 25-30mm is more reasonable for a real-world car with stock or 70 Series tires.
You can use standard B21 piston with an 8 bolt crankshaft and connecting rods and you can increase your displacement from 2.0 liters to 2.1 liters.
But you will need a different head gasket because of the increase in diameter of the bores and you have 2 basic choices, the Elring big bore head gasket or custom made by Cometic.
What else do you have planned, big camshaft and Webers?
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
I have an AC delete kit with new poly bushings if interested...
It is a Volvo factory bracket that remounts the stock PS pump, bypassing the double belt arrangement. Was put on cool weather cars in Canada, etc.
Try checking the exploded assembly diagrams and parts lists on GCP site...they will show all the parts involved, and give at least an idea of correct assembly.
I also have a 97 965, what kittysgreyvolvo said, especially the part about the timing belt and idlers, in case you didn't know the white block is an interference engine. If you don't know how many miles the timing belt has on it, I would change it, if you change the timing belt, you might consider the water pump also. Also info about 960 upgrades on Turbobricks.
There is a known problem with the fuel rail, the end facing the radiator, will leak fuel, due to vibration, mine did. As a st...
Here is the page on AW70 transmissions.
In just browsing there, you may have a clogged filter. There is also on the same page the procedure for changing ALL the fluid, including that in the torque converter.
"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '94 940T (463K+), 92 245 (300K+), 90 740 (148k)
My wife and three of her roller derby friends decided to take a roller derby road trip from Austin to Nashville this weekend.
Envision four well-built women (all between 150 and 200 lbs) and their gear stuffed into our 1987 245. It's a 1000 pound payload.
They left behind a Toyota Prius and a Honda Accord coupe--in other words, they picked a 30 year old station wagon over the more modern options.
I spent the day yesterday going over the various systems--brakes, tires, engine, transmission, ...
Update 2: they made it home to Austin on Monday night. No problems--everyone had a good time.
Yup, Kitty, sobriety blows (under 0.08%) we hope if you're drivin'. Not sure if the best but I am still a Mann man both for the turbos and the "noormally assipride" long ago convinced by dissecting an orange kiss o'death. But this subject has so many opinions because changing one's own oil is common to every level of DIY car maintenance.
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Why didn't Noah swat those two mosquitoes?
Whoah, there Nelly!
A huge number of Volvos go hundreds of thousands of miles on filters that are marked Volvo.
You, or others can do better on the web?
Anecdotal evidence trumps Volvo's testing and experience?
Would your observations of construction be better than Volvo's research?
I used to get Mann oil filters from Groton . Mann states that their branded filters have the same construction and specs as their OEM filters.
I submit that filters are relatively inexpensive - no place to pin...
Update: they arrived safely and comfortably yesterday evening. All is well! They will play two bouts and then move on to Hot Springs, AR for Sunday night. More later!
This trip will bring our brick to 296,000 miles.
You can remove the wheel rotor to access the dust/splash shield.
You can use regular jobber length drills.
A grade 5 bolt can still be drilled as they are no so much harden but are made of better quality steel.
A decent HSS drill will work but a tungsten colbalt drill will do it without any problems of having to resharpen it.
You must keep steady pressure on the drill to keep the cutting edge engaged. Turning a drill slower helps you feed more per revolution. Nothing dulls a drill faster t...
Every time I've felt that vibration when braking that comes up through the seat, It's been the rear u-joint.
Bruce S. near D.C.
Get some peppermint oil and cotton balls. Put a few drops of the oil on the cotton balls and place them where the mice are. They will leave. I use it in all our parked cars and tractors over the winter. The peppermint oil messes with their lungs. And traps. I like the Victor traps with a metal bait pedal. With a little practice you can adjust the force needed to trip the trap and nobody gets away.
My 93 240 wouldn't start this morning, the strange thing was it seemed to be affecting the starter. At first I thought maybe a bad starter? Then I remembered Art's discovery of a failed CPS firing the plugs before they should and forcing the starter to stop. Not having a scope I was not able to test it like Art. I had not replace the CPS yet on this car in the 11 years I have had it.
There was a small split in the insulation near the connector so I decided to replace it and see if this sol...
Real proud of myself today after succeeding at replacement of a light bulb without shattering 25-year-old sun-baked plastic, I am.
But I had help. The help was in the form of a spare lamp to examine and practice on. Thought I'd share what I learned, since I feel as though I've learned this before the hard way and promptly forgotten it.
The idea is to push the heavy "catch" inward away from the cover without inflicting any force on the li...
Just a note on the old style hinges with the grease fitting. If they haven't been greased regularly they may not want to take fresh grease. A few light passes with a propane torch will often get them to flow. -- Dave
It most likely is the steering shaft u-joint near where the steering shaft attaches to the steering rack. Try spraying it liberally with WD-40 while moving the steering from lock to lock for a few minutes. This could take a few applications to loosen the u-joint. Been down that road before with my 240 and 850. Your car is now old enough to require that maintenance. Will need to be done every few years or so.
Hope that is the simple solution to your problem...:)
When you exercise your steering, put 3 or 4 pieces of cardboard stacked under each front wheel to make things easier for your steering.
The connector you are looking for is the one they buried above your left foot. It is rarely a problem, but I gather you already know the wiring in the back of the car so this is where you're headed.
The yellow wire is in pin 20.
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Eventually you will reach a point when you stop lying about your age and start bragging about it.
For LH 2.2 the overboost switch shuts off the fuel injection relay. The switch is mounted near/on the EZK on 740s and 1984-87 760s. The switch is near the coolant reservoir on 1988-89 760s. The Turbo+ kits came with a switch with a higher pressure setting. You can dig out the potting over the adjustment screw and turn up the pressure setting.
It shouldn't be necessary to shut the engine off to get your car to run right. As soon as the boost level drops, the switch closes and the fuel pump re...
Be sure to take a picture of the connector before you open her up. To know where each wire was in order.
When you get it running again, I would put a volt meter across the battery terminals and check the voltage with the engine idling. I would then turn on the A/C (set blower max) and the head lights and see if the charge voltage drops below the standing battery voltage (battery voltage without the engine running and everything turned off). If the alternator cannot at least maintain battery voltage with this load on it, you probably have a problem with the alternator.
If you're having intermitt...