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We have been using Mobil 1 for many years. I change oil every 10K miles and Mann filters every 5K miles. The reason I use this oil is because it is about as cheap as dino oil changed every 3K-5K miles and I don't have to be under the car in January or February here in MN pulling the drain plug and waiting for the containers to empty. Also, the seals last much longer with the synthetic oil. We have 3 of our 8 940s with over 200K miles and the rear main seals just leak a drop or two overnight com...
I just spent way too much time undoing a headpipe/exhaust manifold connection on a 240. I climbed under the car with a 15 mm 6-point socket, extension and breaker bar fully expecting to resurface within ten minutes.
Unlike the many other times I had done this task, the headpipe flange nuts were unyielding. Even using the blue flame wrench resulted in the royal pain-in-the-ass of two twisted off studs.
I was puzzled because I never had that problem before no matter how many rust belt winters ...
Always use antisieze unless otherwise specified, example: Engine oil is specified on B20 rod bolts. (All aftermarket rods come with their own lube) Using lube on the threads and mating surfaces reduces the friction at those places and allows much more clamping force to be applied by the fastener without extra stress.
'Go dry or die' sounds fairly moronic to me. I doubt anyone who says that is any kind of tradesman.
69 142S Overdrive + 69 164S Manual
Some resources for you. With the front suspension subframe, double wishbone suspension of the 110-120-130, and p1800 (and by proxy the 140-160), you have some options to control the compressed spring under the raise Volvo Amazon as part of spring and strut replacement.
Some Volvo OEM green manual action for you. Like you're at the Volvo dealership garage in 1971.
Here are the PDF manuals you wa...
Hi, try this map Art posted elsewhere. I think it was on some other car of your years.
It shows the the two coil relay you are talking about.
Test lights can do that for you. It is confusing with out knowing on what side of the circuit you are on.
A voltage drop of some value (?) still means the light can be on through something else or directly to ground.
If you get 0.0 volts on a voltmeter, but yo...
There's no good news your AMM is not bad. Only news that your measurement did not confirm it.
The usual problem when there is no voltage on the orange wire with key on is a poor connection in the circuit through fuse 6. You'll do well to double check everything you do to trace this and be sure you are understanding what the new meter is telling you. Practice. Repeat each check, because the slightest touch with bad connections can temporarily mend them.
Fixing these cars isn't so much abou...
If you are getting no voltage at the orange wire with key on, the problem is not your AMM. That power comes from the fuel injection relay above your passenger's foot. It depends on power through fuse 6 in the '91.
This may be some help:
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Broken corn chips often resemble Minnesota.
Sorry to assume you already had a multimeter in your possession, as well as some experience using one.
As an owner of 25-year-old cars using computerized spark and electronic fuel injection, I depend on such tools. They help me to avoid swapping parts to see what fixes things, but in your case, I believe you need to swap the AMM next. Eventually you will get familiar with the OBD if you keep the car. Each time you remove power to it (as in disconnect battery) you remove all memory from th...
You might be on a good trail as the ECT can cause an overly rich engine response.
If it's unplugged or a bad wire this will cause a false signal or lack of one actually and will make the ECU think its in an Alaskan winter!
Only trouble is, I want to say they rarely fail but that's not never!
There are other things ..... You might have a bad AMM, a leaky cold start injector or still a bad FPR. Especially, if it's not returning the proper amount of fuel back to the gas tank.
Ohhh. Holding out on us, eh?
To continue further, you could take some electrical voltage readings on the AMM connector with engine off but key on. Take them by rolling the boot back off of the socket and poking the probe of your voltmeter at the backside of the wire terminals and list by wire color.
Art Benstein near Baltimore
"Doc, I can't stop singing 'The Green, Green Grass of Home.'" "That sounds like Tom Jones Syndrome." "Is it common?" Well, "It's Not Unusual."
Yes, the Bosch blue coil has an internal ballast, which is what the Pertronix needs.
I had the exact same thing happen to me this summer. See my link here:
You have to swap in a known good fuel pump relay first and if that does not work, swap in a known good ECU.
I had both lying around the house and it wound up being the ECU. The original one was the dreaded pink label.
After this episode I went on eBay and purchase another functioning ECU and am currently looking another as I...
100mm or about 4 inches is ridiculously too much...OK for a showcar, but you wouldn't be able to drive over a painted line without bottoming...don't do it! 25-30mm is more reasonable for a real-world car with stock or 70 Series tires.
You can use standard B21 piston with an 8 bolt crankshaft and connecting rods and you can increase your displacement from 2.0 liters to 2.1 liters.
But you will need a different head gasket because of the increase in diameter of the bores and you have 2 basic choices, the Elring big bore head gasket or custom made by Cometic.
What else do you have planned, big camshaft and Webers?
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
I have an AC delete kit with new poly bushings if interested...
It is a Volvo factory bracket that remounts the stock PS pump, bypassing the double belt arrangement. Was put on cool weather cars in Canada, etc.
Try checking the exploded assembly diagrams and parts lists on GCP site...they will show all the parts involved, and give at least an idea of correct assembly.
Here is the page on AW70 transmissions.
In just browsing there, you may have a clogged filter. There is also on the same page the procedure for changing ALL the fluid, including that in the torque converter.
"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '94 940T (463K+), 92 245 (300K+), 90 740 (148k)
My wife and three of her roller derby friends decided to take a roller derby road trip from Austin to Nashville this weekend.
Envision four well-built women (all between 150 and 200 lbs) and their gear stuffed into our 1987 245. It's a 1000 pound payload.
They left behind a Toyota Prius and a Honda Accord coupe--in other words, they picked a 30 year old station wagon over the more modern options.
I spent the day yesterday going over the various systems--brakes, tires, engine, transmission, ...
Update 2: they made it home to Austin on Monday night. No problems--everyone had a good time.
Yup, Kitty, sobriety blows (under 0.08%) we hope if you're drivin'. Not sure if the best but I am still a Mann man both for the turbos and the "noormally assipride" long ago convinced by dissecting an orange kiss o'death. But this subject has so many opinions because changing one's own oil is common to every level of DIY car maintenance.
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Why didn't Noah swat those two mosquitoes?
Whoah, there Nelly!
A huge number of Volvos go hundreds of thousands of miles on filters that are marked Volvo.
You, or others can do better on the web?
Anecdotal evidence trumps Volvo's testing and experience?
Would your observations of construction be better than Volvo's research?
I used to get Mann oil filters from Groton . Mann states that their branded filters have the same construction and specs as their OEM filters.
I submit that filters are relatively inexpensive - no place to pin...
Update: they arrived safely and comfortably yesterday evening. All is well! They will play two bouts and then move on to Hot Springs, AR for Sunday night. More later!
This trip will bring our brick to 296,000 miles.
You can remove the wheel rotor to access the dust/splash shield.
You can use regular jobber length drills.
A grade 5 bolt can still be drilled as they are no so much harden but are made of better quality steel.
A decent HSS drill will work but a tungsten colbalt drill will do it without any problems of having to resharpen it.
You must keep steady pressure on the drill to keep the cutting edge engaged. Turning a drill slower helps you feed more per revolution. Nothing dulls a drill faster t...