Got the fuse panel out. Aside from the melted fuse, it is clean as a whistle, front side and back. No apparent corrosion.

#5 controls the clock, dome light & chime. The 15 amp fuse was 90% blown if that makes any sense. I suspect that may be why the heavy draw accessories were not working but the chime was...who knows. Still, why did it blow now? Maybe the heat from the failing #1 fuse? Probably.

As for the melted #1 fuse, here's what I've concluded so far. The #1 controls the main fuel pump and ECU. It is the original pump. I'm willing to bet that the pump is shot. This car sits from Nov. to April every year. My guess is that the pump motor nas some corrosion from that rest time. Although the car is off the road, it is stored in a carport so it's not completely out of the elements.

I think my next step is to test the resistance in the pump motor. I read in the 700 FAQ that the motor should draw 6.5 amps.

How would I check that? I do have a digital volt meter (DVM).

Is it possible to check that at the fusebox?

Do I have to pull the pump to check it more accurately? It's not that I'm reluctant to pull it, it's just that the car is not in a convienient spot right now to do that.

Also thanks to the FAQ I realize that the distributer issue is common - will order the part soon, hopefully the dealer parts dept. will be willing to spend some time chasing this cheap part for a 23 year old car! Wish the seal under the Hall sensor wasn't so difficult to access and replace because there is a little bit of oil getting by it.

I think once this is sorted out, I'll eliminate the main pump fuse at the fusebox and instead make it an in-line unit.

But first, can anyone help with those questions about checking the current draw of the existing pump?