The 058 and 059 caps are keyed identically, so that's not the problem.

Let's step through it... first turn the engine so the pointer on the timing gear cover points halfway between the 10 and 20 marks on the pulley. Verify that both valves on #1 cylinder are close, all the way up. If one valve is down, rotate the motor 360 degrees and check again.

Point gap: I think it's easier to remove the distributor and do this on the bench than to struggle with it in the car, but your choice. Turn the distributor so the rubbing block on the points is centered on one of the high spots on the shaft cam, sop the points are as far open as they're going to get. Use a feeler gauge to set them so there's .016" (.40mm) of open air between the contacts. Verify that the contacts close when you turn the shaft to the low point on the cam.

Drive gear: Reinstall the dizzy (if you pulled it in the previous step) and make sure it's seated all the way. Put the rotor on. Turn the dizzy so the rotor points to the scribe mark just clockwise from the condensor. If it's possible to do that, we don't care what the orientation of the drive gear is. If not, it's less confusing in the long run to move the gear so that it is possible, although there are workarounds.

Basic timing: Turn the dizzy slightly counterclockwise until you're sure the points are closed. Turn on the ignition. Turn the dizzy clockwise until you see or hear a spark snap across the points. Repeat until you're sure you stopped turning clockwise exactly where the spark snapped. Turn off the ignition. Tighten the dizzy right there. If you can't get a spark, there's probably a short to the body at the condensor/wire connection, and/or the spring on the moving half of the points is shorted to the body.

Plug wires: Install cap, remembering which contact the rotor points to. That's #1 plug wire. Then proceed counterclockwise from there -- the next wire is #3, the next is #4, and the final one is #2.

Start the car.