Hi Jim,

You do have a lot of thoughts in this thread, each deserving of a thread in itself. The "remanufactured" ECUs scare me. Please tell me, does your fuel rail include a Schrader valve and no cold start valve? So many times on these forums I hear of 92's without the modern rail and 951 ECU which I believed to be universal in 92.

I think the 3-gauge pod will fit. Some of the later car's lower cubbies are short and there was an amp stashed there.

Since Phil made some comment about the throttle setup, I'll add to my remark. My approval was based on the recognition of the procedure from my reading of the 89 factory manual developed even before the first of these LH2.4 cars hit the street. Volvo's official guide said (on p.33 of TP31361) to back the plate off of fully closed by one half turn of the slotted adjustment screw.

I've read many forum debates on "base idle" setting for LH2.4 cars using the two-pin Bosch idle air valve. If you look at that valve in your hands, you see the "limp home" design feature. Look at that opening and think about a young driver stalling at an RR crossing. It is important. Among those debating the procedure for setting that throttle opening screw are folks who understand the working idle valve needs to be able to shut air down enough to reach the idle RPM fixed by the computer's feedback -- under all temperature and engine wear variations. That the adaptive trim capability in LH2.4 needs to be able to cover the "bottom end" of the airflow adjustments.

Many in those debates thought the book recommendation of a half turn was too much, and I suppose wear in the shaft bushings, plate alignment, and other mechanical differences between 1988 when the recommendation was made and 2019 or whenever support those criticisms, so I thought your splitting the difference to 1/4T was "excellent." Besides that, you appear to be careful to not introduce new troubles or at least recognize the opportunities.

TL;DR it seemed to me you knew what you were doing. I'm not as fussy in actual practice, rarely even needing to mess with it, just setting it so the plate can't stick. But, that's too vague to communicate to others.

The switch is another subject. Think of it this way. If you set it too finicky or close to being closed, you have the chance the idle speed won't be regulated when the switch itself messes up. Snap action switches do. They get old. Ask anyone who's worked at Microswitch in Freeport, IL. If you have the switch open after a significant and palpable press on the pedal, that probably won't occur. If your motion before the switch opens is too much, you'll notice it when crawling in traffic, but that would be a lot of pedal travel before it would be affected.

It is always better to understand the system, if you can, as opposed to following a rote procedure.





--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Mistakes are the portals of discovery. -James Joyce