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I admit to being lazy and greedy and this does not require my wife's opinion.
Its been a while since I've visited brickboard but along with advice from my friend John Sargent, the forum has pulled me through many a tight spot. Right now I am resisting family pressure to abandon all three of my beloved remaining 940's and take my wife's XC 70. That would mean an end to tinkering and an admission that the remainder of my life should be spent in an arm chair, rather than upside down on my concrete car port.
Thus, I am trying to get quick answers to a bunch of 940 questions. Anyone want to try these?
1. Transmission seems to be OK. Shifting is tight between gears and especially good when the transmission is warm. However, between second and third there is usually (and always when cold) a very long delay. In other words I can't get it to shift into third under any kind of acceleration unless I back off the accelerator. Then it will shift. When it first drives on a cold morning there seems to be slipping. But, as I said, the transmission otherwise seems nice and tight. I have never done anything transmission like on any 940 I've owned. Including no change of fluid. The car is 200K.
2. Heater. A year ago my heater fan stopped working. It was a difficult job getting access under the glove box, but finally I was able to open the cover and found ???? (its been a year) can't exactly recall what, but I think it was a broken wire, loose wire, disconnected wire ... whatever it was I made a careful and competent repair and immediately the fan went back to normal. The car has been in storage for the past 6 months. When I took it out and drove it, everything worked as it had, except the fan only blows on setting # 5. It produces heat just fine, but only on that setting. I don't know whether to go exploring again at the fan, which was definitely a chore, or whether this might be at the switch?
3. Accelerator pedal is sticky. I've tried lubricating what I can access, but nothing. I just need more info in where this may be hanging up.
4. Very bad "Clunk" at the left front wheel. My guess is ball joint. I've examined the brake caliper and that seems to be fine. The clunk is heard when I go over a bump, even a slight one. I have the ball joint. Just want a little encouragement to get into that job. I've done ball joint before, a couple years ago in connection with replacing a strut. The strut job was the toughest of any project I have ever done on a 940, probably because I tried to separate something instead of just replacing it. Again, can't exactly recall, but I do recall applying Map gas to something for 30 minutes and still struggling to get it apart. This was after the strut was removed. Anyway, that's not the issue, here, except the clunk is coming from the left of the same car on which I did the right strut, so I have a concern that my assumption of ball joint may be just an avoidance of another strut job. Should I expect that if one strut is broken, the other one should be, as well?
5. Windshield is badly pitted. This car must have been used to test a sand blaster on glass. Its not that bad, but I regret getting rid of the car I just donated, which had a brand new windshield. I should have removed it and used it. However, the replacement cost a little over $200. For that money, I would have the pros do this one. I have seen systems for polishing the glass, but that would probably more time, energy = money than $200.
6. A lot of "bearing" type noise is coming from under the hood. Its not the belts. It could be the power steering pump which is low on fluid, but has not effected the turning, yet. It could be the water pump, which has fluid ooze around it. I've replaced water pumps before and have a rebuilt ready to go. Logic would point to the power steering pump, but I've been fairly careful not to run it dry, knowing it could break it. I could probably determine if it is the power steering pump by filling the reservoir, but I know most of the fluid would just squirt out the pin hole in the high pressure line, so I don't want to do that until I fix the line, although it would tract down where the noise was coming from, or not coming from.
7. Very loud rubbing noise coming from it seems passenger side rear wheel. Could be the break shoe for the e-brake is rubbing. Sort of a combo rub and grind, noticeable when I am coming to the end of a stop. Disk brake seems to be working OK, though. Probably can't get any answers on this and I will just have to investigate.
List is unfinished, but if I can get some guidance, I'll be encouraged.
Bob Franklin
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Yep, Mr Spook has summed it up quite well. I'd do the tranny flush first because if the tranny does not respond, then maybe its over for this particular unit.
I am at the point with my 945 that come spring I will sell to someone, I taught both daughters how to drive in this puppy. It's never been hit, but it hiccups enough that I can't send it 200 miles away for daughters internship in the spring/summer. These cars are now 20 years old and finding good ones is not that easy anymore. I love it's simplicity and love working on cars, but I think the time has come for this one to move to the next guy.
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If you do as Spook wrote, you will have a nice 940.
As to the XC70, so long as it is not a 2001-2002, try it. It is a prety good winter car and the mpg is reasonable. Of course the engine compartment is a little crowded with the tranny in front of the driver and actual axles holding on the front wheels. Because of the AWD, you will no longer be able to induce a power oversteer, so some of the fun go out of driving it. But try it anyway.
BTW, you have just a few more days of Fall to work on the cars. Snow and cold wind in Minnesota.
--
My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat
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Dear robertmfranklin,
Hope you're well. Question 1: Transmission. Flush the automatic transmission fluid. It is likely very dark red or black, either of which signals the fluid is past the end of its service life (50,000 miles). Flush with 12 quarts of Wal-Mart ATF. Drive 1,000 miles and re-flush with Mobil 1 or similar synthetic ATF. See the FAQs for a step-by-step on how to flush the ATF.
Question 2. The heater fan problem likely results from a failed or corroded heater resistor pack. This unit is mounted in the air duct to the left of the blower motor housing. If memory serves, it is secured by two hex head screws. You may be able to restore function by removing corrosion on the contacts.
An aerosol corrosion-remover will be very helpful. If cleaning the contacts does not restore function, replace the resistor pack.
Question 3. Lubricate the throttle spool, which is mounted atop the intake manifold. The throttle cable has a black plastic sheath: the cable itself is woven of steel wires. You can lubricate the cable by dripping some automatic transmission fluid into the opening, where the cable emerges from the black plastic sheath. Lubricating the throttle spool and the throttle cable should improve throttle function.
Question 4. If the ball joint does not have "play", I'd suspect the cone bushings, sited where the control arm stay joins the control arm. There are two bushings, one on either side of each control arm (total of four cone bushings on each car).
Question 5. When a windshield is pitted, replacement is required. Make sure that whoever does this work is familiar with the job. You do not want your car to be their "learning experience". A leaky windshield will quickly lead to electrical problems and rust-out.
Question 6. Fill the reservoir (using the indicators on the rod, that sticks down from the cap. See if that causes the "bearing noise" to diminish or go away. If not, you can listen to the water pump by taking a plastic or cardboard tube, and put it against the water pump housing, while the pump is running. If you hear "grinding" or a "rattle", the water pump should be replaced.
Question 7. Check the rotors to see if: (a) one is hot (sign of a seized caliper); (b) one is scored (sign that dirt/grit has gotten between the pad and the rotor, which can create grinding noise.
As to the pin-holed power steering high presure line, I agree with rstarkie, that putting a fastener into the pin hole will not work. Indeed, it is likely to cause the pipe to snap. If there are no signs of corrosion on the outside of the pipe, you might be able to fix the leak by getting a piece of copper tubing (the interior diameter of which matches the exterior diameter of the power steering fluid pipoe. Cut a piece of copper tube to a length that allows one inch on either side of the pin-hole. Slit the copper tube, so that you can open it up and slide it over the power steering fluid pipe. Once the copper section covers the pin-holed area, gently squeeze the copper tube together with a pliers. Then solder the copper tube along the cut seam and at both ends. If this does not work, then the hose will have to be replaced.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Spook,
Thanks for the detailed replies. The responses are more limited than they use to be and it makes me sad to think forum members may be retiring their enthusiasm for 940s as they age past 20 years. Not in your case, though, or mine, just yet.
On the other hand, it just may be that you said it all.
Brief follow ups, if you don't mind.
Transmission. Flush. That makes sense. I can figure it out from the instructions on the FAQs. My recollection is the fluid has to be pumped out, not drained.
Heater. If the resistor is bad, would the #5 setting work, as it is doing. How would I order the resistor and just a hint about how it is installed.
Sticky throttle. I had lubed the "rotor" without a change and I tried to force some silicone spray into the wire where it enters the rubber boot. My sense is the sticking is at or closer to the pedal itself.
Power Steering line: I like (love) your idea. And I am fairly adept at sweating copper tubing. The one question I have ... Could it work to get a tube that is very close in size. The push the pipes aside from each other and slide the copper on one end and then center it back when the line is aligned. I realize this would eliminate the option to squeeze the pipe tight, but if is were a fairly snug fit and the copper and steel were properly dressed for flux and solder inside and out, enough solder might flow to seal the arrangement.
What do you think about trying it this way. If successful it is a much easier and reasonably permanent fix to the problem.
I do see advantages to slicing the copper tube longitudinally, as well. But opening a small piece of copper and getting it onto the pipe might be a challenge. I have a lot of copper tubing in various sizes around. I'll check to see if I have anything that might fit and then report back.
The major problem, I am anticipating is keeping the area clean and dry. An old time plumbing trick is to take soft bread and knead it into the hole. With no pressure on the fluid this should keep it dry long enough to do the soldering.
I'm still tempted to screw a small brass machine screw into the hole, just a couple turns, cut and file it flush - very carefully. Then do the copper sleeve.
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Hello,
Please excuse my different point of view...
It's encouraging to see so much idea on how to fix a high pressure hose. I think we're dealing with 1000-1500 PSI here. My take - replace the entire hose.
This is not high pressure AC hose (260-380PSI), low pressure AC (45-100PSI) or tyre (190-260PSI). I wouldn't risk a fix there. Lest you don't want to lose steering assist during critical moment.
That aside, its hard to find the original hose with the curlicue vibration dampers. Those at IPD and FCP are shorter hoses than original. Without it vibrations at parking speed do occur sometimes.
Regards,
Amarin.
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Dear Amarin,
Hope you're well. You're surely correct as to the pressures involved. A fix - if the steel next to the pin hole is not corroded - is fine, if it works. If not, no harm done, except for expended time and energy.
As to replacing the hose, Volvo VADIS - the superseded dealer parts/service database - shows that the pressure hose for the CAM/TRW Rack is Part #9157221, which has been superseded by part #9191449. In North American markets, the Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) is about $203. For the Koyo Rack, the part is #6819375, for which the MSRP is about $166. So near as I can tell, these hoses are still available from Volvo North America.
Thus, your sound advice - that hose replacement is entirely worthwhile - can be pursued using a Volvo brand part.
If robertmfranklin cannot repair the pin-hole, a new hose would seem to be readily available.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Thanks Spook for the info! I may need one in near future.
Amarin.
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Dear robertmfranklin,
Hope you're well. Transmission - You're right to think that the old fluid is pumped-out, and replaced by fresh fluid introduced via the transmission dipstick tube.
Heater blower - The heater control resistor's failure mode is to work only on the top setting. This unit is part #6848756 (MSRP = $50). As you're in New England, might I suggest ordering it from Tasca Volvo in Rhode Island? They discount genuine Volvo parts and the shipping cost should be modest.
To install the resistor unit, remove the glove box. You should see - in the air duct to the left of the blower motor housing - a wiring harness that has three connectors (one with four contacts, and the other two connectors with two contacts each). These connectors go to the resistor unit, which is secured by two screws. Disconnect the connectors, remove the screws, and remove the failed unit.
Sticky Throttle. Remove the under-dash panel. That provides access to the shaft, on which the accelerator pedal is mounted. Press the pedal with your hand. If it does not move freely, use a spray lube on the shaft.
Power steering lines. I'd not try to bend or "displace" the power steering lines: the stress might break the seal, where the steel fitting connects to the rack body. That would mean a worse leak than is now present.
As you're adept at sweating copper tube, I'd urge making a repair sleeve by cutting longitudinally and opening-up a piece of thin-wall copper tubing (as thin as you can find). If you can't find thin-wall copper, then brass will do.
Using thin-wall tubing should allow it to be gently squeezed closed and then soldered. I'd not overlap the copper tube, but rather aim for a repair sleeve that is perfectly concentric. At the risk of laboring the obvious, I'd position the repair sleeve so that its seam is on the side of the steel tube, opposite the pin-hole.
If the pin-hole in the steel results from a manufacturing defect, the copper sleeve will cure it. If the pin-role results from extensive corrosion inside the steel pipe - not likely, as water should not be present in the power steering fluid - then other pin-holes will develop.
Clean the steel pipe with methyl ethyl ketone (MEK). MEK is a chemical cousin of acetone. MEK removes every trace of grease, oil, etc. MEK is very flammable, and is carcinogenic. Use MEK with lots of ventilation, do not smoke, and do wear gloves.
To prevent fluid leakage during the repair, you might be able to plug the pin hole with a tiny piece of butyl rubber. Butyl rubber is very sticky. While butyl won't adhere to oil, it will stick to well-cleaned steel. I'd use a very small amount: just enough to cover the hole and 1/8" around it.
The real question is whether it will be possible to heat the steel enough to allow soldering, while there's power steering fluid in the steel tube. As the steel tube connects to a rubber hose, one must take care that the heat does not reach the rubber hose.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Bob:
As usual, Spook is spot on. Given the falling temps in Mass, it looks like a cold late Fall out on that concrete for you. As for getting rid of the 940s, my wife is trying to get me to buy a Volt. That's the car with the sticker warning you of instant electrocution if you put your unauthorized, untrained hand under the hood. If I buy one, that's it for car fiddling. I'll spend my leisure hours on my bicycles.
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