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Dear robertmfranklin,
Hope you're well. Question 1: Transmission. Flush the automatic transmission fluid. It is likely very dark red or black, either of which signals the fluid is past the end of its service life (50,000 miles). Flush with 12 quarts of Wal-Mart ATF. Drive 1,000 miles and re-flush with Mobil 1 or similar synthetic ATF. See the FAQs for a step-by-step on how to flush the ATF.
Question 2. The heater fan problem likely results from a failed or corroded heater resistor pack. This unit is mounted in the air duct to the left of the blower motor housing. If memory serves, it is secured by two hex head screws. You may be able to restore function by removing corrosion on the contacts.
An aerosol corrosion-remover will be very helpful. If cleaning the contacts does not restore function, replace the resistor pack.
Question 3. Lubricate the throttle spool, which is mounted atop the intake manifold. The throttle cable has a black plastic sheath: the cable itself is woven of steel wires. You can lubricate the cable by dripping some automatic transmission fluid into the opening, where the cable emerges from the black plastic sheath. Lubricating the throttle spool and the throttle cable should improve throttle function.
Question 4. If the ball joint does not have "play", I'd suspect the cone bushings, sited where the control arm stay joins the control arm. There are two bushings, one on either side of each control arm (total of four cone bushings on each car).
Question 5. When a windshield is pitted, replacement is required. Make sure that whoever does this work is familiar with the job. You do not want your car to be their "learning experience". A leaky windshield will quickly lead to electrical problems and rust-out.
Question 6. Fill the reservoir (using the indicators on the rod, that sticks down from the cap. See if that causes the "bearing noise" to diminish or go away. If not, you can listen to the water pump by taking a plastic or cardboard tube, and put it against the water pump housing, while the pump is running. If you hear "grinding" or a "rattle", the water pump should be replaced.
Question 7. Check the rotors to see if: (a) one is hot (sign of a seized caliper); (b) one is scored (sign that dirt/grit has gotten between the pad and the rotor, which can create grinding noise.
As to the pin-holed power steering high presure line, I agree with rstarkie, that putting a fastener into the pin hole will not work. Indeed, it is likely to cause the pipe to snap. If there are no signs of corrosion on the outside of the pipe, you might be able to fix the leak by getting a piece of copper tubing (the interior diameter of which matches the exterior diameter of the power steering fluid pipoe. Cut a piece of copper tube to a length that allows one inch on either side of the pin-hole. Slit the copper tube, so that you can open it up and slide it over the power steering fluid pipe. Once the copper section covers the pin-holed area, gently squeeze the copper tube together with a pliers. Then solder the copper tube along the cut seam and at both ends. If this does not work, then the hose will have to be replaced.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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