|
Dear robertmfranklin,
Hope you're well. Transmission - You're right to think that the old fluid is pumped-out, and replaced by fresh fluid introduced via the transmission dipstick tube.
Heater blower - The heater control resistor's failure mode is to work only on the top setting. This unit is part #6848756 (MSRP = $50). As you're in New England, might I suggest ordering it from Tasca Volvo in Rhode Island? They discount genuine Volvo parts and the shipping cost should be modest.
To install the resistor unit, remove the glove box. You should see - in the air duct to the left of the blower motor housing - a wiring harness that has three connectors (one with four contacts, and the other two connectors with two contacts each). These connectors go to the resistor unit, which is secured by two screws. Disconnect the connectors, remove the screws, and remove the failed unit.
Sticky Throttle. Remove the under-dash panel. That provides access to the shaft, on which the accelerator pedal is mounted. Press the pedal with your hand. If it does not move freely, use a spray lube on the shaft.
Power steering lines. I'd not try to bend or "displace" the power steering lines: the stress might break the seal, where the steel fitting connects to the rack body. That would mean a worse leak than is now present.
As you're adept at sweating copper tube, I'd urge making a repair sleeve by cutting longitudinally and opening-up a piece of thin-wall copper tubing (as thin as you can find). If you can't find thin-wall copper, then brass will do.
Using thin-wall tubing should allow it to be gently squeezed closed and then soldered. I'd not overlap the copper tube, but rather aim for a repair sleeve that is perfectly concentric. At the risk of laboring the obvious, I'd position the repair sleeve so that its seam is on the side of the steel tube, opposite the pin-hole.
If the pin-hole in the steel results from a manufacturing defect, the copper sleeve will cure it. If the pin-role results from extensive corrosion inside the steel pipe - not likely, as water should not be present in the power steering fluid - then other pin-holes will develop.
Clean the steel pipe with methyl ethyl ketone (MEK). MEK is a chemical cousin of acetone. MEK removes every trace of grease, oil, etc. MEK is very flammable, and is carcinogenic. Use MEK with lots of ventilation, do not smoke, and do wear gloves.
To prevent fluid leakage during the repair, you might be able to plug the pin hole with a tiny piece of butyl rubber. Butyl rubber is very sticky. While butyl won't adhere to oil, it will stick to well-cleaned steel. I'd use a very small amount: just enough to cover the hole and 1/8" around it.
The real question is whether it will be possible to heat the steel enough to allow soldering, while there's power steering fluid in the steel tube. As the steel tube connects to a rubber hose, one must take care that the heat does not reach the rubber hose.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
|
