Stand the box on it's end for a few hours & see if any oil runs out of it.

If you are just removing the box & not looking at the clutch, then you can go ahead & use the allen head capscrews. Cut a small length off an allen key & use a ring spanner on it to loosen or do the final tightening on the allen heads.

Well.. I, for one, have *always* installed the transmission/bell housing as a unit in all old Volvos, with exception of those pesky B16 designed 544s. Lift and guide the bellhousing with your knees while lifting with hands the back. Keep in mind that's the only way to do it if you go with the M410, which.. is also a good bit heavier than a M41. Wear your grease clothes. The rope through the shifter hole with assistant inside is a great help if you have a '72 or later car (remote shifter)

Have the top starter bolt through the bell housing before you offer it up to the engine.. whichever way you do it.



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-Matt I ♥ my ♂

For the heck of it, I tried to replace the transmission with the bell housing attached. Way to heavy and bulky. I'd like to meet the person that can lift an M41,bell housing and OD as a unit to the motor.

I ended using hex bolts to attach the tranny to bell housing over the years. On my 142 I like em better.

I used to hoist the M41 unit into the bell housing by hand. Testosterone levels drop after 30 years. Now I rig a rope to the tranny through the shifter hole and have my wife pull up while I stab the throw out bearing.

Joel
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Antique Swedish Steel 71 142E color V#102

The bearing retainer can be removed easily and the gasket and orings replaced. Installing the seal is best done with a socket that fits just inside the steel outer shell, and pressing it in with a vice.
The front bearing might be removed if you have the specialized puller that draws the inner race between the balls. I doubt you'll have that. Installing a new bearing will be impossible. If you allow the input shaft to slide forward while changing the seal on the bearing retainer a synchronizer shift plate may become dislodged, and you'll be dismantling the entire trans to assemble that one again.
Throw away the socket head bolts, get some 7/16 capscrews of the same length, and install the bell housing first, then the trans. Just why Volvo used those socket head bolts is a continuing mystery, and they are not needed.

"From a parts breakdown it seems to show a seal, gasket and O-rings for the three housing bolts. Is that correct?"

Yes.

"Do you just pull the bolts and replace the seal, gasket and O rings?"

Yes.

"Any chance the front shaft will fall out in the process?"

No, but still be careful anyway.

"While I'm at it how hard is it to change the front bearing. It seems quiet. Just leave it be?"

Technically, you can change it without disassembling the gearbox, but it would be super difficult. Much easier to change when you have the gearbox apart. My opinion is if it is quiet and you have no reason to think it's bad, leave it.

I have never had a problem installing the bell housing first and then the gearbox to the bell housing. Of course this is referring to a M4, M40, M41. Actually, I don't think I've ever done it any other way.

I agree. I use a short piece of 3/8" alum wrench in a 3/8" socket and a 3/8"
drive extension.
That gives enough flexibility (with the tranny hanging down) to tighten it up fairly well.
Sometimes I finish the job with a regular alum wrench and a piece of 3/8" pipe or other suitable tube
as a cheater.
Do you think your front tranny seal is bad? Usually they last pretty well.
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George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!