I've done it (saved me from buying a rear O2 sensor), though my OBD lets me see the values so I didn't have to rig a way to see what the RO2 is at..

Anyway, I just clamped the hose to the purge valve from the intake manifold. If it were open you could have fuel vapors which would screw the results. Leave this clamped when you 'squeeze' (clamp..) the 2nd hose.

The 2nd hose is the hose after the FPR is the line that returns to the tank. Clamping the hose will significantly increase fuel pressure, which means your car will run rich. That results in the change in the O2 sensor (i think mine jumped to like .78V). Then let the hose go (releasing the pressure), i think results ti a spike drop around .2 but it should climb back between .4-.5.

Combined instrument, I thought it was a typo, so I just pulled off the EVAP hose so fresh air would come in, resulting in lean operation (it dropped somewhere less than .1V.

If you can't read off the O2 sensor on an OBD, you can read the values by hooking up wires through the connection near the firewall, so hook up your wires first when the engine is cold.
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?