Volvo RWD Forum

INDEX FOR 1/2026(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 1/2008

[<<]  [>>]


 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Cam profiles

Horsepower=Torque*(RPM/5250)

If you take a look at this equation, you can see that by making more torque at the same RPM, you make more horsepower. By making the same amount of torque at a higher RPM, you also get more horsepower (think Honda S2000). So these are the only two ways to make more power - either develop more torque, or, shift the torque peak (and the powerband) upward - or both, of course!

I am by no means an expert, but I'd say that a fairly accurate response to your question is that most simple cam swaps do not really add much 'overall power' to a Volvo motor - you need to do more stuff to alter airflow, like headwork, headers, etc... to really broaden the total output of the motor. With just a cam swap, you are going to sacrifice a little here or there to get the power curve you want. The M-cam is excellent for low-end grunt - below 2500RPM, it can't be beat. The B-cam is a good step up from that, which helps to broaden the powerband and produce good response from the low-end to the high-end. The A-cam is slightly more radical, shifting the torque peak higher for better HP, but less low-end torque. Next is probably the VX3, then the Phase1/V15, K, Phase/V16 and H cams, GT6, etc... each giving up progressively more low-end torque for a higher peak HP number, at a higher RPM.

And then of course you can alter your cam phasing relative to the crankshaft to further tune any given cam - advancing a cam brings the torque peak down, retarding the cam takes it up.

Let's use my car as an example, 'cuz I have some experience with it! My '83 240 with M-cam fell flat on it's face after about 4000RPM. A sport exhaust (2.25") helped a bit, but I wanted more power. I popped in a K-cam. Now, the car has little grunt under 2500RPM, but as the tach needle sweeps past 3500 the car moves like an athelete, and keeps pulling to the redline. With the M-cam, the HP rating was something like 113HP/135lb-ft. With the K-cam, it's probably around 130HP/136lb-ft. Peak torque changes only slightly, but because it occurs at a much higher RPM, the resulting horsepower figure is greater. As long as I keep my engine above 3000RPM, the car has more power. To get it, though, I sacrificed my low-end torque. Because the K has such a high power peak, though, I can use an adjustable cam gear to advance the cam and get some of the low-end back, while still keeping most of the high-end power. I'm trying this over the weekend, so I can give details then.

So, to wrap up my now long-winded post, it all depends on what kind of driving you want to do - don't just run to the cam quoting the highest HP figures. The K is probably as radical as you'd want to go on in a street machine. Check out the Turbobricks forum, as there have been a lot of cam discussions and comparisons lately, on turbo and NA cars.
--
Speed Racer, '83 240 R, '74 164 E, '93 940 OL1 (Manchester, CT)






THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD

New Cam profiles
posted by  ICE RCKT  on Wed Mar 12 15:18 CST 2003 >
  • New Cam profiles
    posted by  nyroguls  on Wed Mar 12 15:55 CST 2003 >
  • New Cam profiles
    posted by  lkchris  on Wed Mar 12 18:19 CST 2003 >
  • New Cam profiles
    posted by  someone claiming to be philip bradley  on Thu Mar 13 02:46 CST 2003 >


<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.