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The round red bulb sensor relay is leftmost, rear. It's awkward to remove just reaching in, but it can be done. Removing the neighbouring relay(s) will allow you to get a grip on it. Getting it back in is a bit trickier. Use a flashlight to note the pin rotation in the tray and mark the corresponding centre front of the relay for reference so you can keep it facing the right way as you poke around getting the keyed center stud into the tray.
If you find that too awkward then to better see what you're doing and get at the sensor, remove the storage tray above, which in your case is recommended for relay tray inspection now that you're in the area. It only takes a minute to remove it. Pull the square plastic bezel around the lighter socket straight out to reveal two screws, one straight in, one at an angle The shelf tray then swings out from the left to free the grip studs on the right +pulling the tray straight out on the right can damage the dash material. The long screw is at a steep angle and difficult to get back into the metal clip nut (the clip can pop off, making for a treasure hunt). Memorize the angle during screw removal. Unclipping the relay tray, two plastic tabs, and pulling it forward and out for inspection underneath requires storage tray removal. Feed the harness back in folded to make it easier to when reinstalling the relay tray, beware if catching wires under the tray.
Given your symptoms, odds are 85% if not 99% that re-soldering the main joints on the two stacked PCB boards inside the relay will fix your problem -pry off the cover working a small slot screwdriver around the edge. A 45 watt iron with a sharp pointed tip is recommend, inspect your handiwork carefully for leaving accidental solder bridges with a magnifier under good light. Lots of information out there. Google should find you Art's article and pics on his cleanflametrap.com web pages. Art is the undisputed expert on re-soldering the bulb relay.
Headlights are high current, as well as the single main fuel pump and even the brake lights, so inspect carefully under the tray for signs of deformity from poorly contacted pins. Pull all related relays, use spray contact cleaner both sides and firmly reseat -push down again after the tray is back in place. If you see deformity, push the wirrs up from under the tray when reseating. The Volvo green manual wiring diagrams would tell you the suspect relays and pins. The '95 manual can be found online with great effort, but almost any 940 manual will do for the relay tray.
Wouldn't hurt to remove and cleanup bulb contacts in the taillights, also loosen and retighten the black ground wire terminals to the body. Something like DeOxit is optional, but recommended.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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