The Safelite or Autolite glass I got for my 1992 after the under the windshield, branded Pilkington, came with an awful metal strip reinforced plastic border. The border has a groove the cheap flexi-plastic reveal sets into. Both the plastic border and the reveal which was about too narrow to span the gap to hide the windshield pinch-weld pan.

One day it nearly flew away. Not even GOOP UV-resist RV would keep it adhered.

Look ugly. Yet the NAPA Auto Paint store recommended lacquer clear coat over the urethane color, and that has all failed.

The cheap Chinese glass is optically poor, yet better than a 20-year sand pitted windshield on my now 1990 and chipped 1992 factory glass.

I used a cutting wire and windshield removal levers to cut through the factory butyl as before. Insert the levers to maintain the mindful gap. It was cool out, yet the crank did not grow too much.

The issue is proper alignment on install. My most recent install, after many years was misalignment.

You still need to remove the old butyl. I'd not ever use or allow urethane on a classic or if you have some serious rust repair and rust sealant as I do on my 1992.

One Autolite or Safelite glass store tells me that the urethane is there to improve the structural strength of the greenhouse between the A-pillars. Uh-huh.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=5623079

Search for "404":
http://www.agsc.org/newsletter/newsletter_March2017.html

Thanks.
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