No, I do not have a link to the manual that you need but I can tell you that the hardest part is usually getting the darn crank bolt loose. If someone has been in there before you, likely so, then hopefully it will not be near as tight as a virgin one. Otherwise, it is more or less the same as any other timing belt.

Set it up on TDC, use paint to stripe the gears and a reference point on the backing plate.
Remove the crank dampner.
Loosen the water pump and take the tension off of the belt and remove the belt.
Replace the belt and reassemble in the reverse order.

If you are replacing the water pump at this time I recommend that you just bend the backing plate out of the way instead of removing it to get the pump out. Removing the backing plate entails removing the cam gear which if memory serves me correctly it is not keyed onto the end of the cam and will necessitate setting the cam back to it's proper position with the correct special tool which is a complete pain in the ass so it is best if you just avoid that fiasco. Even if you are not replacing the pump you really need to at least remove the pump so you can replace the O ring seal and clean the sealing surface. If you have not figured it out yet, the timing belt is actually tensioned by the water pump. Crazy frikin Krauts figured it would be a great idea to make the water pump the timing belt tensioner as well so it is adjustable?!?!? What the heck were they thinking or smoking when they came up with that beauty is beyond me. Lastly, if you do not have a fair amount of experience with timing belts you might want to consider a belt tension guage to make sure that you set that sucker up just right. Heck, I've done a bunch of them and I still break the tension guage out when I have to go in on a D24, just for peace of mind on my end.


Good Luck,
Mark