The long bolt/nut that goes thru the small bushing (the front one) does pin or bind the center metal cylinder of the bushing in the cross-member. Tightening this bushing should be done with the vehicle weight applied to the wheel so as to put the control arm position approximately neutral when the car is sitting on the ground. This keeps the vulcanized rubber part of the bushing from being torqued in this position, which is what you don't want.

I accomplished this by lifting the wheel in question with a floor jack and a block of wood placed so that the lifting is as far outward on the wheel spindle as possible which makes the applied force better simulate the force when the wheel is on. Lift just until you start to lift that side off the jackstand on that side and no more. Then do your torqueing of the control arm bushing bolt/nut.

The rear control arm bolt really doesn't require this treatment as it is not twisting about the bolt axis as the control arm moves up and down.

One question for you: Did you get those big Volvo composite bushings (rear bushings) pressed in with just a vice? Those things are the weirdest design I've ever seen. They look like some carbon fiber/rubber construction and they are quite out of round. I cracked one with my first try at installation with a hydraulic press. Then I machined a copy of the Volvo install tools and I'm waiting for the replacement for the cracked one to arrive.

If you got those in with a vice, I'm impressed. Any special tricks/words of wisdom?