This job is pretty straightforward, except for stuck hubs and rusty components. A couple of things the manual might not cover. First, block up the brake pedal with a piece of wood so it doesn't descend to the floor and gush out a bunch of brake fluid. Second, you should take this opportunity to flush out all the old brake fluid and put new in. Unless that has been done in the last couple of years the fluid is likely full of water and discolored. Finally, only do one side at a time so you can look at the other side for reference. The procedure is dead simple: adjust in the shoes to provide clearance for the drums, pull the hub (taken the precautions mentioned earlier), remove old parts, replace with new, re-install the hub, re-adjust the shoes. With rust and lots of unknowns, this can take anywhere from a couple of hours to days of work!

Tim
'72 1800 ES
'90 240

The main thing is that your hub puller needs to be a serious one, and it must attach to the lugs, not pull from the edges of the rim.

Put the castle nut back on the axle loosely before pulling, so you have less chance of mushrooming the tip of the axle.

You'll want some stout needle-nosed pliers to get the springs back on the brake shoes.

Not much to the rest of it... I recommend that you replace the cylinder on the opposite brake as well, because usually when one goes, the other is not far behind it. That's a suggestion, not a requirement.