The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Rear Brake Cylinder Leaking 120-130

The main thing is that your hub puller needs to be a serious one, and it must attach to the lugs, not pull from the edges of the rim.

Put the castle nut back on the axle loosely before pulling, so you have less chance of mushrooming the tip of the axle.

You'll want some stout needle-nosed pliers to get the springs back on the brake shoes.

Not much to the rest of it... I recommend that you replace the cylinder on the opposite brake as well, because usually when one goes, the other is not far behind it. That's a suggestion, not a requirement.






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.