Although I believe Bruce S. has accurately pinpointed the issue, and trichard leaves nothing out of his excellent recollection of the repair procedure, I'm still going to add my two cents to see my name in print.

Having gone through the diagnosis (matching the sound with the cause) and repair at least once on just about every 240 we've owned, I've come to believe the rear control arm bushing has been the best justification for the money and space investment owning a press requires. Yes, it helps with a lot of suspension work besides the front control arm, but these bushings seem to be the heavy hitters.

I've managed to avoid removing the entire control arm to replace the bushing, just removing the cup, but from reading here, I realize some are so corroded the bushing inner sleeve will just not come off of the arm under the car, so pulling the whole arm is the way to do it.

A bit more rationalization comes every time I read on this and other forums of the loose shell issue that follows when the press is avoided, and instead, the old bushing is driven out with a 2-pound maul with a street's curb as an anvil. After that, comes control arm replacement (Scan-Tech or Dorman offers a copy) or tack welding the bushing shell.

Maybe someone has experience with a poly option. I've been skipping over those posts, so can't offer any insight.

Here is the sure way I've been using to do the bushing replacement on the bench.








--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

He who obtains has little. He who scatters has much. -Lao Tzu