Yes, I forgot about this. I'm sure I've read here of several instances where the nut was tightened with wheel hanging, resulting in another failed bushing.

An alternative to ramps I've used is tightening the nut with the cup clocked as it would be with the arm flat (loaded) before attaching the cup with its three bolts, using channel lock pliers to twist the cup into place to start the bolts. When you look at the flat surface of the bottom of the cup it is easy to align that to the same plane as the control arm as it appears when the tires are on the ground.

The reason I do this rather than drive up on ramps is on the right side, the exhaust gets in the way.

I think the original bushings were different left-to-right (slightly different torque resistance design) but all of my replacements have been done using the same aftermarket Boge parts. Also, I think I've noticed only the newer 90's 240's used a nut needing an 18 wrench instead of the old 19.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

A man will pay $20 for a $10 item he needs. A woman will pay $10 for a $20 item that she doesn't need.