Sounds like you think it might be flooding when it tries to starts warm.

This car does not have a cold start injector starting system.

It uses a engine coolant temperature sensor. There are two them. One for the dash readout and the other for the computer.

The Ecu one is not reading enough resistance to the ECU and it thinks the engine is cold. This varies the pulse width time the injectors are open.

Either the sensor is bad or the wire from it is a closed circuit condition to a wire in the harness or to a metal ground.

You could warm the engine up and then disconnect the sensor.

If that doesn't work then look for bad wires in the harness at the firewall gray connector.

The sensors should be the on the lower side of the engine under the manifold.

I believe the front one has only a singe wire. The ECU one has a rubber boot & spring clip.

Follow those color wire(s) up and back to the connector. A volt/ohm meter helps.

My thoughts were that you pressured washered the engine harness which accelerated a problem a little quicker than it was going to happen anyway.
It has been noted on BB, that there are problems with the insulation in these harnesses.

New wire can be routed to bypass this circuit and properly connect the sensor to the ECU.

Hope this may leads you to finding the problem or next possible problem the AMM is failing.

An Exhaust Heater Thermostat failure in the air filter box, kicks its front and rear end. A fact! I unsnapped the whole door apparatus out when I had to replace the AMM with a rebuilt one. I made sure it would never ever overheat again! No $200 again I hope.

I think, I have read they can be more of a cold start problem. And don't run well hot. Which could be yours.

I've had only the one fail. It made the engine do a bucking/lopping motion at low speeds.

I drive only sticks so it easy to detect (like almost lugging) when you know your speed is not low enough to be lugging.