Yeah, that does make it more attractive, doesn't it?

I'm around and have been around enough toxic chemicals in my work that I try to avoid them as much as possible with the hobby. I think for those that aren't around bad chemicals as often the exposure risks are probably less. But isocyanates have me spooked.

Unrelated to iso-issue: in the airplane shop where I worked we had a guy nicknamed, appropriately enough, "Cowboy." Wasn't afraid of chemicals. Washed epoxy off his unprotected hands with acetone. Developed a sensitivity and one day went into shock. Ended up not even being able to walk into the building without having a reaction.

So I try to be careful and pay attentions to MSDS sheets.

Zero-Rust is popular with shadetree restorers for the safety and effectiveness. One argument is that it isn't as hard as POR and other moisture cured urethanes. They can crack and when that happens it traps moisture and allows corrosion to creep under the hard finish.

I've used POR and Zero-Rust and the Zero works well enough. Recoated my A-arms four years ago and they are in OK shape. Not perfect mind you, but the car doesn't live in a garage and it is now exposed to salt in the Midwest winter. Also I used rattle can which is thinner formulation. I can now spray HVLP so should get more mils than before.

I think it works well enough, is easier to prep, and not nearly as hazardous. And its less money. If you are doing a show-car restoration then I would think twice, but for "drivers" it works well in areas that aren't seen.

Check the autobody forum. http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index

There are members there that have much more experience with it than I have.

Good luck.