There's always the ultra-slim chance that the timing belt broke broke just as you shut off the engine - I've seen it happen before. To eliminate the possibility though, open the oil filler cap and have someone crank the engine over while you watch the cam turn. OK, now that we know the timing belt is OK, it's time to move on to the things that REALLY go wrong.....

There's a 99.999% chance that your problem is either the Fuel Pump Relay, Radio Suppression Relay, or RPM Sensor.

If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a second or two when you first turn on the ignition, suspect the fuel pump relay.

If you DO hear the pump run for a second, suspect either the Radio Suppression Relay or the RPM Sensor. (You can turn the ignition on and off a couple times and then loosen the fuel line fitting just a little on the high-pressure side of the fuel injector rail and if fuel sprays out in your face then there is probably nothing wrong with the fuel pump or fuel pump relay.

If you don't get spark or a slight quivering of the tachometer needle while cranking the engine, suspect the RPM Sensor. If it's bad, you "should" get a 2-1-4 fault code, but don't always count on it.

If you have good fuel pressure and good spark, suspect the Radio Suppression Relay. You can swap the wire leads between it and the identical Aux Fan Relay as a test.

That's pretty much the whole troubleshooting procedure in a nut shell.