$200 for a fan clutch?

Man. What I do with my car(s) is this. If the parent wants something fixed, he can spend the money to fix it, or let me fix it. This generally means I get to learn how to fix whatever. Which is more than fine with me (less so with the neighbors for sure).

That said, I see one of two scenarios:

1.) They messed up putting everything back together.

or

2.) Something was adjusted to compensate for the blown head gasket which is now resulting in your hard starts.

When you get the car started (warm) does it run okay? If so, I would suspect all the doodads designed to help prevent vapor lock (in-tank pump, accumulator, and impulse relay). The best thing you could do would be to measure the fuel pressure, and make sure you're also getting enough fuel.

Other, simpler things to try:

Visually inspect everything. Look for loose wires, etc. If you don't have a component location diagram for all the fancy K-Jet doodads, lemmie know and I can send one to you.

Hook up an LED to the cold start injector. The CSI is pulsed by the impulse relay when warm. If you don't see the LED blinking on a warm/hot start, start tracking everything down. Is the CSI plugged in? Impulse relay? Coolant temp sensor?

Hook up an ammeter to the main pump circuit, and then the in-tank pump circuit. High current draw would be indicative of a dying pump, no draw.. the pump isn't working.

BTW, when the O2 sensor is warmed up, it is designed to cycle between (hence the name lambda sond) lean and rich fuel mixtures. IIRC this is to allow the two main components of the three-way catalytic converter to function. As a result, you should hear the frequency valve (the thing on the back of the fuel distributor with the electrical connector on it) buzzing.

- alex

'85 244 Turbo
'84 245 Turbo