Dan, my experience as a non-pro with a small family fleet of daily drivers yet, is when the tank pump quits (brushes short, commutator worn, doesn't matter) the car can be driven locally without any symptom. It may even work part time in the case of short brushes. But the main pump will suck fuel from the tank past a stalled pre-pump.

But take it on the interstate, in the heat, and the fuel warms up as you drive, gradually heated on its trip through the rail and back down the return line, until the main pump can no longer overcome the vapor lock formed by the heated fuel in the tank-to-main pump line. The motor doesn't just quit, it runs on a quickly increasingly lean mixture, and loses power before it dies. Getting up a hill is tough, although I don't know of any in Florida.

Since the experience helping my daughter through such an occurrence on a trip through Yellowstone, I've added to the oil change routine a simple check to see the tank pump is drawing current through fuse 4, hoping to catch a failed tank pump before it requires a tow. She nursed it along by doing what you describe -- allowing time for the fuel to cool between trip segments until finding a shop in Wyoming to do the tank pump replacement.

None of our cars have had a temperature-related failure in the EZK ignition system, either from a power stage or crank sensor. In any case, none of those parts ever failed "temporarily" to regain performance when cooled - yet. But, I would expect the motor would die without any warning should it happen.

It is hard to gather the facts from another driver, especially one as precious to us as our daughters out there on the side of the highway.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Children seldom misquote you. In fact, they usually repeat word for word what you shouldn't have said.