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A battery disconnect should do an SRS control module reset, just as it does for the ECU. For others reading here, SRS OBD procedures and codes are in the FAQ. The codes quickly narrow down the problem area.
Hate to say it, but an SRS light out of the blue is often a broken clockspring at the base of the steering wheel. The OBD code if you could get it would point to the driver airbag. If the light came on during hard turning like parking then almost certainly the clockspring, also if you've been working on the steering rack or column (steering column rotation changed). You don't need the SRS manual to replace it, just try doing a bit of research and watch a few videos. There is info in the FAQ and a bit of searching may turn up a few good posts here on clocksprings, including a few I probably did. Most important is knowing that the clockspring needs to be locked during removal/installation (advancing a locking screw between tabs), never turning the wheel when a locked clockspring is in place (breaks the clockspring), having the wheels pointed straight ahead during both removal and installation, prior to installation always checking that the clockspring is locked in the neutral/mid-spring position (able to rotate 4 turns tighter), and finally remembering to unlock it when you're done (bye-bye new clockspring). Other than that it's mostly just steering wheel removal and sourcing a new clockspring, good used is often simplest, they either work or they don't.
Beyond that, without a code, first thing I'd ask myself is where have I been working in recent history, like under the dash, footwell carpets, removing console side panels or playing with front seat. If you've been poking around under the driver seat from either front or rear then maybe check all connectors under the front seat.
If the SRS port in the diagnostic socket isn't working you could refer to the factory wiring diagrams for locating and troubleshooting the wiring to it. SRS airbag components use orange harnesses so easily spotted and avoided. Be absolutely careful and know what you're doing if you need to use a meter at the SRS control module connector. Best to locate and open the orange connector for each airbag before using a meter on the control module connector. Never use an ohmmeter on anything directly or indirectly connected to an airbag.
BTW I hope you didn't think the 65 ft-lbs on the old hub cap was for the hub nut rather than the wheel stud nuts. The 5X more than likely refers to the number of studs perhaps as a reminder that it applies to each stud individually, as if someone with a torque wrench wouldn't know that. Angle torques are mostly used in critical, torque to yield situations where a new fastener is called for. If you somehow decide to reuse a fastener that may have reached its stretch point, use less torque than called for to reduce the chance of failure. Some of those two step angle torques can be awkward to achieve unless you have an extra long breaker bar or use a cheater pipe. I picked up a 30" breaker in a surplus bin that I wasn't sure I really needed, but I've found a number of situations where it's been much more convenient than trying to use an extender, especially for angle tightening and places where thread locker may have been used. Problem with angle tightening is often getting enough clearance for the handle throughout the angle and not wanting to use a socket extension if you can help it. There are one step torques you can lookup as approximate equivalents, but the accuracy will vary considerably based on the condition of the threads, friction surfaces, materials and size of fitting. Those should be avoided in torque to yield applications.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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