it is really not difficult to swap it out whole.

i may miss a step but this will get it done

1. jack up rear end with jackstands on rear jack points
2. remove tires "for now"
3. unbolt brake calipers still attached to lines and hand them from springs "for now"
4. remove rotors and e brake pad to access e brake adjuster separating it from the cable
5. remove rear driveshaft from axle
6. carefully remove all attachment points of the brake lines from axle so they float once the axle is out
7. remove torque rod bolts from axle attachment point. you can or not leave the other torque rod end attached... remove track rod both ends
8. place jackstands or cribbing under the rear axle about 18" from both sides of the pumpkin .........slide the rear brake cables free of the axle
9. remove 2 bolts where the axle attaches to the trailer arm...both sides
10. figure a way to keep the calipers floating out of the way as you unbolt the rear spring from the trailer arm and remove it
11. re attache the rear tires to the studs...a couple of nuts each is enough.... if you do the job alone
12. remove speedo cable from pumpkin and move it out of the way, move out of the way any fuel lines that might interfere once axle drops
13. place a floor jack under the pumpkin and raise the axle enough to work it free of the trailer arms... remove the jack stands under it obviously.
14. the rear tires will ensure it does not crash to the ground and makes it easier to roll around as needed

PS. you may or may not have to unbolt the top nut of the rear shock and pull it off its stud which will allow the trailer arm assembly to drop a bit giving you more play getting the axle off the arm. some times you have to and sometimes you don't.

install is more or less the reverse