Tell you what John, I'll do better, I'll give you the run down. About six months ago I initiated a string on the rope trick that lasted two weeks and brought in a maelstrom of comment!

First, I recommend using the rope trick for both removing and installing the crank bolt. However I do not deny that the starter can be used to loosen it. I just prefer to do it with the rope.
1. Remove your distributor cap and your number one spark plug. Turn the engine around until you are about 40 or 50 degrees past TDC using the timing marks. Make sure you are on compression for #1 by checking to see that the rotor is near the #1 spot on the cap. (both valves closed on compression stroke to avoid possible damage)
2. Get about 40" of nylon rope. Burn both ends to eliminate fraying. Feed the rope into the #1 cylinder. You may have to use something like a small piece of doweling to help you get the rope in. Leave 6" hanging out to grab.
3. Turn the engine backwards. The #1 piston will back up against the rope and compress it until the piston cannot move. The rope is soft enough that no damage can be done in the cylinder as long as you are on compression stroke for #1 and valves are closed (which they should be).
4. Once the engine locks up, put a big breaker bar and a socket on the crank pulley bolt and loosen it. No banging, no bumping, just smooth torque.
5. After changing the belt, move the engine forward to release the compression on the rope and remove the rope.
6. Turn the engine backwards to about 20 degrees before TDC and replace the rope.
7. Turn the engine forward to compress the rope and tighten the bolt.
8. Check the specs on that bolt for tightening, I can never remember, but you can find it below.

The specific post I refer to is
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=979854

Good luck!

DS