turning the crank to get the cam lobe at the exact TDC position so the valve is fully closed, and the back of the cam to tapet clearance at maximum, is essential to get a good valve adjustment.

Actually, not so. As long as the lifter is contacting the base circle of the lobe, it's fine -- no need at all to be at the zero point of the circle.

What affects accuracy a lot more is adjusting each valve with the surrounding valves under equal spring tension, as there is a fair amount of flex built into the valve train. The method described in VClassics is the only one that does that.

If you're using a go/no-go gauge instead of a feeler gauge, all you know is that you've adjusted a valve somewhere in a +/- .002" range. If that's all the accuracy you want, it doesn't really matter which of the many methods described you use.