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So does this mean that if I do go with the reloaction "kit" that would would suggest that I omit the flame trap (just go with open hoses)?
Yes, just leave out the white perforated disc (aftermarket) or the brass insert (factory Volvo). It's designed to prevent the explosion of a backfire from entering the crankcase (and igniting the crankcase vapors and blowing out the oil seals). But seriously, when was the last time you saw a fuel injected Volvo backfire??? (maybe if an intake valve managed to get stuck in the open position, but otherwise it's nearly impossible) After Volvo realized that the flame traps were more harm than help, they advised removing them and just leaving the tubes empty.
The flame traps were a notorious source of excessive crankcase pressure since the quicky-lube oil change facilities didn't clean them, and as a direct result many B23/B230 engines have died due to excessive oil loss. In our higher mileage engines, the Oil Traps are beginning to plug up and cause similar symptoms to a clogged flame trap, and thus merit cleaning every 100,000 or 150,000 miles.
God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
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'87 Blue 240 Wagon, 255k miles.
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