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/// If you already replaced the battery it is not likely the problem. There is a very remote chance that the new battery has a defective joint inside the battery but I have only had one and seen two or three others in 40 years of auto service. Not much chance. Try jumping the battery with a second one. Next check the negative cable by clipping both clamps on the negative battery post clamp and the other end of the jumper (both clamps)to the engine. You can bypass the negative cable when you check the battery by jumping the extra battery to the engine for ground. In all these tests the car must displaying the cranking problem for you to detect the solution.
The positive battery cable can be checked by reading the voltage drop while attempting to crank. If there is resistance under the heavy current of cranking the cable will drop voltage. If the problem is capable of healing it will then work for some time before another failure. I once tracked a problem for several months - on and off- before findng that a brand new battery cable was defective.
The most likely cause is a bad section in the starter armature. If this is the problem the starter will fail occasionally. Other times it will work on the first attempt. This is because the starter does not always stop on the bad segment. If it fails on every first start the problem could be the solonoid. It acts as a large relay.
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