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I'd replace the TDC sensor / crankshaft position sensor or what you like to call it.
the engine shakes and the wires flex and there it a lot of oil there. I had some bad experiences with that sensor after my ladyfriend tried moving the car , reved it with the starter enguaged and bent up the thing it reads, its called the flex plate.
I straightened the flex plate with much mucking about. You can get to that by removing the aluminum brace under the bellhousing. I drilled a large hole there as well so I could see it and tweak the thing back into shape. it led to issues wiht no start and finally I found the bolts that stick out of my coil were rusty and that caused no spark. so it was two things.
once upon a time I rebuilt an engine, all went fine until I started it and it wouln't rev past 3000 or so.
I called the volvo shop I dealt with he was great. over the phone even he said straight away I know what you did, you bolted the flex plate on and got it on the wrong bolt holes. I had to pull the tranny or the engine to fix that and I was exhausted from fixing it all and frustrated so I had him pull the tranny , two hours later it was fine, I had marked it but made a mistake and got it on wrong.
I remember the same tech saying I should replace that crankshaft sensor because he said well they do fail so I' d change that for reliability.
it might be a bad ECU or ICU but the thing with those is they are expensive so if you buy one and it doesnt; get you further it can be an expense for not. If you know of a shop that fixes volvos or others with the same car that are nice it would be cool to swap theat but people may feel they dont wan tot lend theirs because it could get damaged.
usually with boards they come in a n anti static wrapped package and you can wear a static wrist strap to keep yourself grounded. what you dont want is to apply a shock like if you pet thekitty or scrub your feet in the carpe and make yourself charged then touch something and give off a zap of static. Boards can fry from that happening. you cna use a hunk of wire and ground that if you dont happen to have the right type of anti static wrist strap. Il often just consciously touch some nearby metal, doing the same. discharging myself.
quality of caps. I go here for my caps for radios he should have any you want.
https://www.justradios.com/
otherwise I get them from lee's electronics in Vancouver. the best are probably military spec. Im not sure where you can order those but maybe. mouser might have them.
In my van's ECU they were rated 16V you might put ones with a higher voltage rating. i doubt you'd see much difference , but they can fail. in old radios I use about 16V rated ones for common table sets from the 50's but other old radios with transformers use higher voltages so usually Id use 450V rated caps. most of the non electrolytic caps I use are the mylar ones I think they are rated 630 Volts but those are non electrolytics I replace anythign in a paper tube with that basically, usually hide them inside the old tube to keep it authentic looking.
in general the electrolytic are in metal cans and you have to pay attention to polarity, the non electrolytic dont really mind being hooked backwards. , electrolytic will blow up if you put them backwards and subject them to higher voltages. a bang, a puff of smoke nothing too serious but that's what happens. if you do that just look for a black line ont he outside of the can that's the negative lead.
If it were me I'd change the TDC sensor and if it's nothing with that at least it's done. also just for fun and since i have the issue maybe give the coil terminals and not just the spade connector tabs a good scrub. Id examine wires to the coil and ones you messed with , it could be that you have a spade connector and green stuff there and it's hanging on by 1 strand and moving it might cause the "last straw" issue.. I like to just use the crimp on ones but solder them and use heat shrink instead of just trusting the crimp method. often I might clip a bit of wire off and get to fresh wire and switch them then you know it's not an issue there.
rev limiter, new on me. maybe the coil can only charge so fast so they switch from two pulses to 1 pulse because then there can be more dwell time between and it's all happening pretty fast at several K RPM.
Id clean the plugs or put new, since that's not expensive , check the cap , I like to wash them in alcohol. you might find carbon tracks. plug wires are suspects too Id replace if they look origional and maybe not if they look ok I doubt it's tht but Ive seen lots of them break often near where the wire connects to the plug connector.
pull the wires out of the distributor cap look for green sometimes I find one full of green. easy to check.
if you have a timing light I;d connect it and point it into the car tape down the button so you can see it flashing.. and then watch when it dies, does the spark die too? can you see if it's happening in sync with the issue?
it sounds like an electrical issue, not fuel but i wouldn't exclude the injector pulse there are things called "noid lights" basically little lamps that ou can plug in between the injector and it's connector so you can watch them flashing , that might not be expensive , you muight just need one. others will know more about those things.
if you rev it at a standstill the motor may also rock , maybe it is a wire getting tugged not because of the RPM but maybe if the motor rocks further it's physically causing the issue then , a wire rubbing or being tugged, something like that might be the cause?
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