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Ok I think I understand what may be going on, Now, that we know the engine is not spinning at all.
The click is the fuel pump relay going through a pre pump stage to charge the fuel rail for a quicker start and less chance for it to stumble.
The ECU does this each time the ignition switch is turn off and back on.
The CPS is a sensor, I mentioned, responds to the flywheel being turned around by the starter.
It is located behind the head of the engine and is mounted on the peripheral of the transmission housing at the top.
It senses this movement and sends a pulse to the ICU to fire the plugs. All of this happens all at once, to also, turn on the ECU functions which adds fuel to the engine. That's when it starts.
If the engines spins and starts without any further issues, like dying or making popping sounds, the CPS is not your problem.
So, from what I can tell you have an issue with the starter solenoid or the cables from the battery.
I always start at the power source when troubleshooting.
First I will explain what needs to happen.
A solenoid on the starter motor assembly pushes out a gear that engages the flywheel. Once engaged the electric motor should turn and crank the engine.
The problem could be inside the starter or getting power repeatedly to the solenoid via the ignition switch circuit. This is why I had to ask for more in depth details because Devils and Gremlins live there together! Good to know about your ignition switch condition.
There is a positive small wire from the positive on the battery feeds a fuse panel and other goodies that make the car do lots of things!
It goes to a fender distribution block....Make sure it's good and solid.
Another positive MAIN cable runs down to the starter motor terminal from the battery.
There is another positive cable there that runs under the engine to the alternator.
Both have to be connected tightly for a good circuit going both ways!
Starting current from the battery to start the motors and for charging the battery back up.
There is a main negative cable that connects onto the engine block and one to the cars body. These are very important cables.
All of the switched circuits get their power from that negative side of the battery.
Some people like to think of it the other way around. That's ok, until you find out EVERYTHING QUITS, if you have no ground or negative cable connection.
Its the big switch, electrically speaking of course.
You said the cables looked good but that may not be good enough. Loose lugs or corrosion under insulation or in crevices raises havoc with them electrons!
If you are reasonably proficient with a cheap digital voltmeter you can locate deficient battery cables fairly easy. Other circuits are a little more tricky.
You take the leads from the voltmeter and run the meter in parallel to each side of the cables.
What you are looking for is a absolute zero reading in digits or as close as you can get to zero.
Anything HIGHER than 0.02 volts on the lowest setting of the meter is leading to something could be wrong or growing wrong with green stuff! We don't like green or white stuff!
Any whole number in the first slot like 0.1 is not good!
WHILE doing the test you should have something on drawing current out of the battery. I use the headlights.
What this is called is detecting a resistance or voltage drop discrepancy.
Any corrosion will act like a "load" within what "should be" a free flowing circuit of electrons.
I like said zero's are friendly to us when testing this way.
When checking the charge on a battery (across a circuits polarity poles) those tenths can tell big stories.
Below are "Rest voltages." They are not hot off a charger or having been charged recently. These would be called a superficial charge on plates and electrolytes?
At rest,
Good battery= 12.65+
Half dead= 12.45
Near dead to dead= 12.35
When I said tricky, you would have to get all the way to the other end and read exactly the input voltage and calculate a load value? Nah, not on big cables or what length of the small ones!
So using a voltmeter can help see and find them there troubled electrons!
If you find nothing, I think you are looking at a tired starter! Brushes, solenoid or sticking drive unit. (:-(
Once you get it figured out pass it on to your daughter on how it works! It will be worth it later to her down the road!
Phil
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