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Geez, I am not sure if you are lost or if I am the one lost here?
What you describe is what the knock sensor is suppose to be doing.
When you say it lines up with the right most timing mark at idle is what blows my mind because that would be the zero timing mark. I hope you are miss stating, what is, the most far right mark?
That should not ever happen unless there was a severe knock all the time! That would not be right since you have the CPS timing system. It should be settled in the 12 degree BTC area which is a blank space between 10 and 15 going to the left. The engine spins to the right so the marks are going to be spotted to the left (in advance = before) of TDC which is the zero.
What you describe is the spark is on the zero, which is in essence at idle, is AT or after ATDC ! Way retarded!
If you were starting a hand crank engine like an model A or an old motorcycle you would retard the spark to fire AfterTC as to not break your arm or throw you over the handle bars to kiss the front wheel!
In those days all you had was a "static" method to time those old engines with a light bulb hooked over the points. All in the days before neon timing lights and even newer transistorized xenon tubes came on the scene.
It takes a certain amount of time to generate and move the spark of electricity down the wires.
The pistons DO move faster than that amount of time and they get many times faster. As that happens the spark is sped up faster by starting it even sooner to keep up to give more burning time of the fuel.
I have often wondered just how fast that can occur, but anyways, this knock is happen to soon which can happen for SEVERAL reasons that should not be happening on these modern engines.
If you are seeing what I understand is a actually zero, then something is in fact, of that infamous term again, "whack." I want to say mechanically too!
The distributor might be off one tooth on the timing belt, could have been install off a tooth in relation to the intermediate gear. The flywheel or the crank pulley is not located properly and lying under the light. Trick is, its knocking? The knock sensor is working overtime! Things are WHACKING in there which is very unusual!
What's the history of past work done on the engine before this started? Clutch, transmission, cylinder head or timing belt change?
Any coolant loss going on?
Are you using the standard heat range sparks plugs recommended?
I am also curious of what type/brand oil you are using and how much between changes?
The type of driving speeds and lengths of drive do you do on a regular basis?
There has to be something to explain this, even if its possible to be some electronic anomaly.
You may have post a video and we will have a show and tell party!
Ooh boy, I have been there, since face time thoughts have occurred, by my relatives and I got this handed down, iPad, from my wife's long time electronic arsenal! (/-) blind sided I was!
Phil
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