Hi All,

I have started to have a few problems with my 1990 760 Turbo Wagon's ignition switch. Sometimes after removing the key it is a real bitch to get the wheel unlocked and get the car started. I almost got stranded the other day when I could not get the key to unlock the wheel. I finally got it and drove it home. I again removed the key and tried to unlock the wheel again...Well it took about 10 minutes to get it to unlock. I disconnected the battery and left it in the "On" position in case I needed to replace it. I went to the volvo dealer and tried to have a new key made, they informed me that the key codes were not available for my car so I would have to see a locksmith to have a new key cut, I suspect the key is pretty worn and perhaps this will fix the problem? I asked about a new ignition cylinder and the only thing available was the entire lockset for about $300.00. Im to the point of putting a tractor starter button in with a toggle switch for on/off. Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. If anybody has a switch and key for sale I would also be interested. Please drop me a note @ jhoneycutt277 at charter.net. Has anyone ever had this problem? How did you fix it?

Thanks in advance!

Jerry in Connecticut

It's not the switch, it's the lock cylinder.
I got one from a dealer, coded to my VIN, with a new, steel, key for ~$100.
My car is also a '90 765T.
Find a new dealer; try
http://www.volvokeene.com/frameset.htm?url=/parts_center.htm
Change it soon, or you'll be walking.

Second that directive- if the thing fails completely, it's very very ugly to get it apart. Dynamite won't be sufficient.
Seriously, it involves drilling hardened pieces out of the steering column. And THEN you need a new lock cylinder. The thing does come apart much more readily if the key can still be made to turn it. Don't wait until it won't work anymore.
One thing you'll see is that the key wears out on its sides- a new key blank is a partial cure. See a locksmith or a different dealer- some have the machine to mill out these keys. They are basically the same as a 960, 850, or S/V70 key. I have not seen the stuck-lock problem on the newer cars however, so I can only hope they solved whatever it was.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!

Ok guys, it could have not been easier to get out. I removed the 4 torx screws under the wheel and the one allen set screw that holds the tilt lever on. I managed to get the key to the on position "one more time" and I depressed the small tab on the cylinder (through tiny hole in the top of cylinder housing) with a small allen wrench. It slid right out with a couple of wiggles! Try as I may now I cant get the key to operate the cylinder. Luckily it had one more time left in it! It does appear that the key is worn badly, I suspect a combination of both key and cylinder wear contributed to the failure. It will start just fine with a screwdriver now. Im going to have a machinist friend make a fake cylinder out of brass with a built in key knob. The key still works fine on the door locks. Its my hoopty daily driver, one of 3 but its the only Volvo and I like it best. Im in the process of upgrading the stereo system now to a boomin JL audio and Diamond Audio SQ system. Thanks to the guys who took time out of their busy day to reply. I have been a subscriber since I got the old girl in a trade for an outboard motor. It had a blown head gasket and I have been hooked ever since. The last problem was a fuel pump relay that you kind folks helped me solve. I now have a complete collection of relays from a donor car, just in case...Please let me know if I can help any one of you guys with anything. These are the easiest cars to work on since my old Ford Bronco.

Best regards...

Jerry in CT

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I sent the boys in NH an email asking if they can order one for me. Thanks again.

Jerry