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Hi kids
Busy weekend working on Frieda the 66 coupe. Got her registered andrunning last weekend, but was undrivable... no brakes and clutch and she was overheating badly.
For the heating problem, I started at the beginning checked everything, starting with valve lash and timing. The PO put the dizzy drive gear in wrong and had the dizzy set up ass backwards too, Started from scratch and reset the gear. dizzy, and timing by the book. I just cannot believe how sweet this motor runs!!! It is just awesome. It seems a little tight turning by hand, but starts on the first hit and runs at completely norm temps now.
The dork boy who owned it before me lost a carb dome screw (HS6 SU) and replaced it with a japanese metric item and busted the tab on the carb body (works just like a threaded wedge). Stupid twit!!!! Sadly, the carbs are just about perfect, as one might expect of 90k easy miles and now one dome screw is compromised!! I put a proper screw back in and Very Gingerly tightened it. I am thinking about building the tab back up with industrial strength metal filled epoxy and then surfacing it back to the normal level, then drill and retap the threaded hole for the correct screw. Are these Whitworth thread??? Thoughts???
Then, the brakes. IPD's 68 wagon Dual Brake Master cylinder conversion kit is just awesome!! Very nice parts and everything fits perfect. Took me maybe a half hour to replace the MC and reroute the lines for a dual braking system, It's not a dual diagonal system, but the fronts and rears ARE independent. Certainly an improvment in safety and reliability, I think.
Drums and disks had maybe .010” wear, max, and look like they have never been turned. No out of round at all, outside a couple thou. The rear backing plates cleaned up perfect and have the, as new, mill finish on the steel with no rust on the passenger side and only light surface rust on the driver’s side. Went ahead and turned all anyway and they cleaned up within .005”, tops. My brake guy is very conservative and was amazed at the drum and disk condition!! He turned just enough to get a good finish to bed the new pads... He knows how pricey these thes drums and disks can be.
Rebuilt the clutch master and cylinders. The fork is worn quite a bit and will need to be replaced. I got clutch though.
Installed the Bosch alternator and adapter kit bought by the P.O from IPDs. Looks neat and tidy and I got volts!!!
Cleaned the fuse block contacts and put anti-corrosion paste on the terminals to forstall future problems. Thanks Ron!
Regreased the front wheel bearings... original volvo stamped bearings are still in perfect condition! Never yet had to replace a front wheel bearing.. Do these things ever wear out???
Best part is..... I got to drive it yesterday for the first time!!!! Yee Ha!! But Whatta Turd!! The tires are absolutely shot and it has two mildly bent rims!! It runs though, by golly! The next step should fix that
Was thinking about 16x7 rims and 55 serier tires but I have had a moment of clarity...I’m gonna pick up some more 15x6 Ford Ranger rims, like on my wagon, and some 205/60 tires this week. An inexpensive approach, but a known good combo and with a set of trim rings looks just dandy to me.
Shayne has some Konis headed my way. That and a set of IPD sway bars ought to give me a smooth riding, yet still competent little car in the curves. I’m looking for a good road car that you can toss about in the corners when you want, and drive 10 hours to Portland in comfort too. Anybody else using this combo have a comments?
Took the driver seat lower cushion and drivers door panel to my local upholstery guy and he found a pretty good match for the green vinyl and I already have some good green basket weave I scrounged in the junk yard out of a 68 140. Ought to be able to make the minimal repairs to the seats and hardly be noticable.
The jute padding comes out next weekend and gets replaced with aluminized closed cell foam. An adjustment of the slightly sprung drivers door too. Hopefully Konis and bars too and I'll be on the road to break in the B-18 for eventual transplant to the wagon.
Decided to freshen up the Aug 68 B20B before putting it in the coupe with the O/D. B's came with a "C" cam right? Why get in a hurry, right?
A productive, fun weekend. Hope everyoneelse hada good time???
Mike
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Hey Mike,
For the heating problem, I started at the beginning checked everything, starting with valve lash and timing. The PO put the dizzy drive gear in wrong and had the dizzy set up ass backwards too, Started from scratch and reset the gear. dizzy, and timing by the book. I just cannot believe how sweet this motor runs!!! It is just awesome.
Ain't it amazing what a little tuning will do? Well tuned Volvos really don't tend to overheat at all, unless some cooling system component is truly shot.
I am thinking about building the tab back up with industrial strength metal filled epoxy and then surfacing it back to the normal level, then drill and retap the threaded hole for the correct screw. Are these Whitworth thread???
That should work. Not Whitworth, for sure -- the H4s were the last of that. Don't know what it is, but take a good screw to Ace and match it.
Then, the brakes. IPD's 68 wagon Dual Brake Master cylinder conversion kit is just awesome!! Very nice parts and everything fits perfect. Took me maybe a half hour to replace the MC and reroute the lines for a dual braking system, It's not a dual diagonal system, but the fronts and rears ARE independent. Certainly an improvment in safety and reliability, I think.
I really must look into this myself one of these days...
Went ahead and turned all anyway and they cleaned up within .005”, tops. My brake guy is very conservative and was amazed at the drum and disk condition!! He turned just enough to get a good finish to bed the new pads...
I've had to turn disks on our 1800 once, as the car sat for six years and the uneven rusting eventually resulted in uneven thickness (which is what rotor "warp" actually is). I don't think they've ever been turned on our Amazon, at least not in the 300K miles I've been driving it.
Regreased the front wheel bearings... original volvo stamped bearings are still in perfect condition! Never yet had to replace a front wheel bearing.. Do these things ever wear out???
Not if you repack them once in a while... at least, I've never had to replace them on our cars.
Shayne has some Konis headed my way. That and a set of IPD sway bars ought to give me a smooth riding, yet still competent little car in the curves. I’m looking for a good road car that you can toss about in the corners when you want, and drive 10 hours to Portland in comfort too. Anybody else using this combo have a comments?
One of my customers has an 1800S with stock suspension except for Koni shocks -- rides really comfortably. I can't speak for the handling, as I don't care to thrash a customer car around the twisties.
I've become more and moe convinced that the heavier front bar is essential, but that the rear bar is useless or even detrimental. It improves turn-in, but lowers exit speed. This may vary depending on how good your new tires are.
Decided to freshen up the Aug 68 B20B before putting it in the coupe with the O/D. B's came with a "C" cam right?
Yes, and they run quite nicely with them.
Sound like you're having a great time!
8^)
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My buddy Ken tried to get me to go look at this car for 4 months and I didn't bite. I finally went over to look at it coupla weeks ago to shut him up, and I bought it 3 days later!! The , general neglect. Another year or so in their hands and the car would be very sad. I think I got it just in time. Two years ago it was a spectacular find. It's still a heckuva nice car and I am exceedingly lucky.
I took pix of the MC install, I'll get around to writing it up!
Gosh, those rear brakes are simple!!
Copy on the front bar, the rear goes on the back burner for now! That gives me more time to take the left front fender off next weekend and adjust that door. Has a llittle ding on the door leading edge I want to address. This door is driving me nuts because everything else fits and closes like a darn safe.
I know the ID tag gives it away, but I want to install the O/D using all the original equipment/paddle switches and the O/D emblem on the deck lid.
I got a whole mess of fillister head carb screws on hand.
Hopefully, the body man gets the wagon next week.
The inherited 62 Willys Panel street machine in my garage has a new home and leaves this weekend... Good riddance gas hog!!
The Cassutt Racer left last week!
I AM having fun!
Thanks Again.
Mike
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The thread on the carb is 10-24UNC. 3/16"-24 is 0.0025" smaller and will
also work. Taps are readily available if you don't already have one.
The broken tab - where was it? On the dome or the carb body?
The B20s with dual carbs all had the C cam. Many of them are worn.
I'd price a street perf cam if I were you. Business is slow enough that
IPD might cut you a deal. Be sure and use NEW lifters- I prefer the IPD
ones (Isky sold them too. I think that they are sealed power AT-992 or some
such) If you do use those you'll have to get the longer pushrods also.
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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Drat the luck, it's on the body!!! A really prime set of carbs too! They are so airtight, that they are just a dream to adjust.
Sealed Power, Eh!! Small block chevy solid lifters? Is that what I am hearing? Just takes longer pushrods to account for lifter height, huh? Amazing! Anybody ever use tubular aluminum push rods like in a air cooled VW to reduced valve train mass?
Yeah the cam has some nose wear. Definitely no wiped lobes, but, looks like a touch of fretting, which I know accelerates quickly to missing lobes.
Thanks George!
Mike
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You might consider building up, drilling, tapping and putting in some helicoils
if the boss is big enough. I could cough up an old HS6 body for you if you
would be helped by it but no guarantees on the condition of the bushing/shaft
interface. Wouldn't like to give you a carb and find out I had really given
you the shaft!
Some companies identify those lifters as #840. The OD of them is 0.840",
which coincidentally is the same as the OD of 1/2" pipe.
No, you CAN'T use a piece of pipe for a lifter!!!
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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The screw split the boss and broke a small radial section out. Basically, I have 2/3s of a tapped hole. But a Helicoil? I cannot believe I didn't think of that. I'll try that in this order
1. Build up the boss and fill the original hole
2. Machine it to shape
3. mark, drill, and tap it, for the helicoil.
4. Install the helicoil with a little JB Weld.
Thanks for the brainstormin!!!
Mike
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Isky #202-H - SBC solid lifters
Isky #Vl-123 - pushrods to match them.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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The availability of parts from odd sources never ceases to amaze me. SBC solid lifters for goodness sakes?????
Thanks John
Mike
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They are the correct diameter, but a different height. Thus the different push rods. You can order a set of only 8 by selecting an 'Iron Duke' 4 cylinder engine - apparently engineered as 1/2 a SBC. I've heard rumors that the B18 was originally derived from 1/2 of a V8 as well (sometimes the rumor is a commercial truck engine, sometimes a stillborn 'full sized' sedan project).
My motor has a decked block,a shaved (way beyond reason, not by me) head, and a shorter rocker arm height (I think - to improve the geometry with higher lifts) all of which conspired to make even the VL-123's too long. Rather than pay roughly double the price for 'custom' length pushrods - I instead got some 'stock' MG-TD pushrods that I found by poring through their online catalog. Right ends, right length (or as close as matters) and only $50 a set instead of $90 for 'custom'.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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"More than one way to skin rat", I always say!!
Not a problem... I got 4 motors to play with.
Thanks John... How's that head gasket holding? Racking some miles up?
Mike
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The conventional gasket worked perfectly. I've got about 140 miles on it so far, ready for the first oil change. I'm still keeping the revs down, but it pulls hard from about 3800 on up.
Next challenge is to get my new Megasquirt computer installed and running the ignition.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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YOU SAID THE SAME THING DAYS AGO!!! I expect you to do that oil change and rack up some more miles pronto like. Jeez, you're soooo slow!
And Mike! Sounds GREAT man! So, you're going to drive up here eh? Nice! Planning on coming to the IPD Garage sale? I'd love to see the car. Great fun... =D
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142 Details 
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Sloth, laziness, etc.
Actually, the trails have been in good shape and the mountain bike has been getting all the attention.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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Oooh, mountain biking is fun! And, you said in the reply to mike you gathered a few Djet manifolds? Would you be interested in selling one sometime in the probably not so near future?
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142 Details
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I could. One sat out in the weather for many years, and the throttle valve is stuck solid. I was going to use that one to practice installing the bungs before working on the 'good' one.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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Too cool John, didja decide to go with the D-Jet manifold or individual throttle bodies, I may not be up to date?
Have you been reading Per Schroeder's Project 142 writeup at? :
http://www.classicmotorsports.net/news.php?cat=5
He has some interesting VE Tables that may well work as baselines for hotter motors.
Exciting stuff, I definitely want MS on my B20F motor for Frieda when I get to that (Damn Time Shortages)!
cheers
Mike
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Well, I had already gotten a couple of D-jet manifolds. While I was putting the motor back in the car I tried one on before putting the Webers back on. It didn't fit - the throttle section sticks out too far and interfered with the tapered front end of the PV engine compartment. So the plan is ITB's now - on my DCOE manifold. That also solves the issue of the injector mounting. My weird late production head doesn't have injector ports and I was going to try to weld bungs into a D-jet manifold.
Now the decidedly more minor issue will be figuring out how to get a good MAP reading from 4 individual runners.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
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I seem to recall something in the the MS installation book about "ganging" them together to a common point. It's been a few days since I browsed that section.
You thinking about converting some DCOEs or using the TWMS? With converted DCOEs you still have the issue of injector placement but I recall you found some injector "pockets" at Summit. Again, I read somewhere that injector placement close to the valve is good for emissions (yeah right!) and further up stream in the manifolds has a positive impact on power. In the manifolds then is not a bad thing it seems.
I 'll be watching your progress with interest!
Mike
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