Hi

New to this forum. I will be the proud owner of a 960 come Sunday and I am starting to familiarise myself with useful tips for 960 owners. I know cam belt changes are vital but have heard different intervals from two VOLVO main dealers. Can anyone confirm the proper interval for a cam belt change on a 1995 960 3 litre? Thanks

As you can tell, opinions here vary widely, and it's important to point out (as I always do) that all are mostly opinions, not based on the entire population of 960 model year cars or even an adequate sample. 960fan, for example, has suggested some pretty strict standards of maintenace with respect to the timing belt, that I don't think anyone has or will follow. Most BBsters will follow a reaonable program of car maintenance (one reason why I think Volvo cars last so long), and many will exercise preventive maintenance, some of which others might believe to be too proactive, e.g. changing out the water pump just because you're in there. Good maintenace does require vigilant monitoring, and there are some items where this makes sense to me. On my 92 960 (now at 106K), I changed out the cam tensioner when I did the 100K timing belt change. It wasn't leaking, but IMO it was a reasonable change that directly affects the timing belt. We have heard from a participant that had the serpintine belt shred on his/her 960, that then damaged the timing belt resulting in engine destruction. Lesson for me: make sure you monitor and change the serpintine at recommended internals. Will I change it out because "I'm in there"?....no.

On the other hand I am religious about timing belt, oil, tune-up etc. intervals that are described in the maintenance schedule. I may be unaware of others, but I don't spend anywhere near $2500 a year on maintenance..maybe $500, but I don't think so. Besides, if you do the math, for say a 8 (or 6) year maintenance schedule, @ $2500/year a versus $12,000 for a new engine, the recommendation should be to wait and see... Engine failure would have to occur within 5 years of ownership for this to make economic sense. At that rate, we should be closing up the 900 series forum any day now...(save for those 940s that never fail). I do tend to fall on the side of owners who will follow the prescribed maintenance and when something fails, you fix it.

960fan makes valid points with regard to what I understand about the engine complexity, but that model did not end because they decided it was too complex for a 'family car' (I think I've seen BMWs used as family cars). They dropped it because it was a RWD and Volvo was making the switch to FWD cars. It was the last model to do so. The basic engine actually lives on in every Volvo now made, with obvious and updated execptions, from what I've been told.

Have fun with your 960..it's a great car (in my opinin, of cours).
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John Shatzer, '97 V90 @ 92K; 92 965 @ 106K

All good points, however.

1)The $2500 per year maintenance figure I quotted is for dealer maintained cars, not cars worked on by their owners. Believe me, at the $85/hour labor charge my local dealer charges, it doesn't take long to run up a $2500 bill (A PNP switch change is $675, belt change is $475. A new heater core replacement is $1500, and just changing the instrument cluster lights is over $500!

2)This forum is NOT representitive of the cross section of Volvo 960 Series owners. I would expect the cars here will last MUCH longer than 75% of the remaining cars.

3)Replacing the parts I mentioned (at aftermarket prices with your own labor)will result huge savings over the period you own your car. Replacing all the "extra" parts will only cost about $250 more than just buying the belt, and the water pump is considered a normal "wear" part, so why wait until it fails to replace it since you are indeed "in there" doing the belt?

4)The design feature changed in all later 4-Valve Volvo engines was a return to solid valve lifters. This alone prevents many of the engine damage (or no compression starts) problems.

5)DO at least run synthetic oil, and carefully inspect your belt sprockets when you change your belt. If the cog edges are rounded off, you will be miles ahead if you change them with the belt.

Hope you picked up your car and are as happy with your 960 as I am with mine! The 960 Series is a sophisticated car, though in many ways simple as well (being the final RWD "brick").

Thanks for the clarifications. I can see why you might estimate yearly costs at $2500. I have 99% of my work done at shops, a combination of dealer and a neighborhood independent, but the labor costs aren't close to that. Different geographical areas, I suspect.

In terms of preventive maintenace, I think we just have different approaches. I would be in closer agreement with you on the water pump if I was changing the belt at 140K (second belt change) and there was discernable play in the pump. I still remember changing my 80 245 water pump at 30K intervals with each tune-up. Those failed like clockwork. I'm not so sure about the V90s.

And clearly, based on your observations, vigilance in inspecting the sprockets at higher mileage should be part of our routine.
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John Shatzer, '97 V90 @ 92K; 92 965 @ 106K

The '95 specifies 70,000mi belt changes, but it has been my experience that every belt change after the first should be done at 50% of the previous belt change. This means the first change is at 70K, the next at 105K, etc. UNLESS you also change all of the drive sprockets.

Many folks think it is only the belt that wears, but in reality the teeth on the sprockets, being made of aluminum, wear on their edges. This eventually will allow the belt to "corn cob" or wear the teeth off of the reinforced belt so the belt slips timing.

Two teeth of slip + $12,000+ if you take your car to the dealer after a valve/piston encounter. Volvo will not rebuild an engine thus damaged, and you're looking at a new engine. An independent mechanic will probably get you out the door under $6000, however.

These engines are wonderful pieces of machinery, but they really don't belong in a "family car," which is what Volvo eventually figured out by dropping the 960 Series. They are fairly rare, in fact, compared to other models. Dealers are not that familiar with their weak points and don't stock many parts for them. Parts are breathtakingly expensive for them (the engines) as well. They do use a somewhat similar engine in the FWD/AWD series cars, but they redesigned the valve lifter design to eliminate the "pump-up" that destroys engines in teh hydraulic lifter engines (like you have).

So...change your belt AND the sprockets (and water pump, oil pump bolt, tensioner and idler bearings), and DO run synthetic oils (or your valves will stick, hit the pistons, and "end-of-engine"), and NEVER start the car and drive it less than 5 miles (valve stems varnish and stick), and ALWAYS drive it hard (4000-5000 rpm for 5 minutes) every few weeks unless you regularly drive long distances on Interstate highways. You need this to get the valve stems clean and to rotate the valves for even wear. It's generally the city-driven cars that only make it to 70,000miles before the engines are shot.

PLEASE don't let me discourage you, however. While only one out of three 960s make it to 100,000 miles (and one in ten makes it to 150,000mi), they are capable of making over 200,000 miles IF every service procedure is strictly adhered to and no shortcuts are taken. Believe me, it's lots easier to pay $2500 per year to properly maintain your car than to get hit with a $12,000 engine repair bill. This car is definitely NOT a car you only change the oil on. It lives on proper maintenance. In fact, no one should even consider buying a 960 without full a maintenance history. Anyone who doesn't keep records probably doesn't do all he maintenance, either.

I've got 110K miles on mine and it's running very well.
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Warren Bain - '86 744Ti M46 >290Kmi, '99 V70Glt > 45K mi, '96 965 >100Kmi Wifemobile near Manassas Va.. Check the 700/900 FAQ via the 'features' pull down menu.

The cam belt cover on mine (97) clearly indicates to change every 70K. The FAQs state yours should be the same. See the FAQs for a step by step process if you plan to DIY.

Good Luck
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89 244; 97 964

The timing belt interval is a bit confusing because of all their changes in the engine and belts throughout the model years. I think the short interval (30K) ended in 94 r sooner, and indeed the 97/98 V/S90 have 70K mile intervals. What I'm not sure of is whether there was an interim inteval for the 95-96 model years... maybe 50K. I would NOT rely on the 97 interval. It should say in your owner's manual, and a Volvo dealer can tell you, as well as about a dozen or more Bricksters. DO NOT rely on an idependent garage for this information. Sorry I can't tell you specifically, it's a model year I haven't owned on of these beasts. I'm suggesting caution and verification for obvious reasons...
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John Shatzer, '97 V90 @ 92K; 92 965 @ 106K

1996 960 70K
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1996 964 134,500 Miles