FWIW, one of my repair manuals (I think it's Chilton) specifically warns that installation of the wrong coil in a 240 will damage electronic components. Even with the Bosch-fired cars, Volvo specified different coils (for example: my B21FT car has a diffent coil than my B230F - although they look identical). This advice is too late for you, but other readers should know that these coils are downright cheap - I recently paid well under $50 for one from a Volvo dealer. On the wiring harness, I'd agree with the other messages posted - I've redone the harness on both my 240s after the insulation flaked off.

As Tom remarked, check the wiring harness. Look at the intake manifold ground lugs and check the wires. If the insulation is comming off, you need a new harness. You have the year. The same thing happened to my 740T. I replaced it and opened up the old harness. Most of the insulation fell off and I wondered how the car even ran. Check it out.

John, you're being mushroomed....kept in dark and fed horsecrap.....if you install a coil that does not have the right primary circuit resistance, the coil will overheat and burn out.....it is rather unlikely that the wiring harness could be damaged in such a situation....POSSIBLE EXCEPTION: if the coil were to short circuit to ground, that would cause a dead short; but that still should not cause a harness meltdown--the ignition system is fused--the fuse would pop.......the ignition coil is not directly tied into the fuel injection computer, so I don't buy the story that a cheapo coil blew up the FI computer etc......a more likely scenario is this: the engine wiring harness was starting to deteriorate--the insulation on the wires in the harness crumbles and falls off the wires--wires that carry current started to touch wires that carry very low voltage signals--wires that carry sensor readings to the computer--THAT can pop a computer......also these power wires may have contacted grounding wires in the harness, and THAT can cause a meltdown......if you want to collect money from the parts house, go see an attorney; you will have to sue the parts house or the part manufacturer....to do that and win will mean that you will really have to have your shit together, cuz an ignition specialist could shoot your theory full of holes as I just did......a caveat for you: most dealership technicians and parts personnel think that aftermarket parts are crap; to their way of thinking, only OEM parts are good, everthing else is junk.....and they like to blame aftermarket parts for every problem they can....it gets them off the hook.............that may or may not be a factor in your situation.......

John,

Looking at the ignition coil wiring diagram I don't see any circuit between it and the FI computer mounted inside the car. The only low voltage connections are direct to the ignition control unit. Can't see how the wrong coil can damage the Jetronic unit.

Well, I hope this is not too late but it may be some consolation if you have not purchased parts yet. That ECU (and ICM) are dirt cheap on Ebay. I mean you can get a 544 or 554 for $15-25, probably the same for the ICM and there are main engine harnesses for sale for not much more. That ECU is on Ebay in scads and the sellers can''t figure out why they do not sell. Failures are almost unheard of in those 86-88 cars. I would say the entire repair could be done for $100 in an afternoon. Gotta love the Brickboard community when it can save you $1900, and I hope it can still in your case.

I put in an aftermarket coil and it was mismatched to the resistor that

my car has. This burned out my ignition box but that was the only thing

it damaged. Your car uses the Chrylser made ignition computer. I believe

this uses a ballast resistor that is at the right rear corner of the

engine compartment. I not sure though, I don't know these cars as well

as the early ones. In general this can only blow up stuff if there is

a resistor needed and its not installed. That can cause problems by making

the system draw too much current.

Dave 82 242ti