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Getting to timiming belt, Pully removal? 200 79

I finally have my fan of of my 1979 245, I now have to remove the pully behind that so I can change my timing belt. What's the best method of doing this with no extra hands?

Thanks

Richard









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    Re: Getting to timiming belt, Pully removal? 200 93

    If you have an impact, it will come off, or else you will have to hold the flyweel with a screw driver and have some one else loose the pulley, and we all nedd help from each other sooner or later.

    Tony P.








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    Re: Getting to timiming belt, Pully removal? 200 79

    Hi, Richard -- I'm a bit confused, I guess. On my long-departed 78, my current 81, 83, and 87, when you remove the four 10 mm nuts right behind the fan which hold the fan onto the water pump hub, the pulley should just slip forward on the studs on the water pump hub. In other words, those four nuts which attach the fan to the water pump hub sandwich the V-belt pulley in between. Maybe there's an installation I'm ignorant about. You *do* have the V-belts off, correct?

    What may be mystifying at this point is how to remove the V-belt which drives the a.c. compressor, if you've got one. The crankshaft pulley is a split pulley which is adjusted by means of sandwiched shims -- very much like the old VW Beetle generator belt pulley. You'll need to remove the crankshaft nuts -- 4 nuts and 2 studs, I believe -- to split the pulley apart to remove the a.c. V-belt.

    Hope this helps.

    Rob








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      Re: Getting to timiming belt, Pully removal? 200 79

      Hi Rob

      That's it, the V belt driving the compressor and it's pully which I need to remove. Sounds like fun. Should I have a torque wrench for that or is it not that fussy?

      Thanks! Once the humidity breaks I'll get right on it.

      Richard









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        Re: Getting to timiming belt, Pully removal? 200 79

        Richard -

        That split pulley can give you fits if it's done without care. The 10mm nuts on the studs are soft metal and can round off very easily. DAMHIK (pronounced dammit) Best to use a 6-point socket on it. If you use a 12-point, hold it on the nut pushing in very hard and very perpendicular, and push the wrench easy until the nuts cracks loose.

        When the pulley splits off, be certain to count the number of shims that are just below the nuts/bolts, and how many are between the pulley halves. Replace exactly the same to maintain the same belt tension. It is varying the number of shims between the pulley halves that adjusts the tension. It's usually a good idea to put on a new belt, same labor. If you do, start out with five spacers inside the pulley, then check the tension in 5,000 miles and see if it has stretched and needs tightening. One spacer changes the belt tension about 1/4 to 5/16 inch.

        Good Luck,

        Bob

        :>)

        PS It's easy to work in high humidity if you have a big fan blowing on you. Also blows away mosquitoes.

        Whe re-assembling the pulley,







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