Last time I checked, "Gapa" (www.gapa.com) had a clutch kit for $100.00 - included pressure plate, disc, TO bearing, and an alignment tool. I assume the quality is acceptable; if it is, that's a pretty good price (1 1/2 years ago I spent $200.00 on a 1974 Alfa GTV clutch set).

I echo Don's sentiments: Absolutely replace the rear main seal when the transmission is off the engine. And you might want to consider replacing the 4th gear OD switch (maybe even the solenoid) at the same time.

A question to the guys who have experience in removing an M46: Is it really that difficult? Recently I helped a friend replace his rear main seal on a 1986 244 that had an auto transmission. With a regular floor jack and some elbow grease, it wasn't too tough to get out at all - but maybe an M46 is more difficult?

Rob-

Inside confession? The only thing that scares me is the blower motor. Clutch? Heavy but not brain surgery. Rack? Saturday AM project. Bushings? With the rear tool, POC. Wire harness, radiator? Normal repair.

$1500 pretty sweet deal but a neighbor should let you save a few hundred...

Maybe I'm getting old but that blower motor makes me ache just thinking about it.....NOT a 20°F and NOT a +85°F job.....and make sure anyone you really care about is out of town 2 days before, all during and 2 days after the job....

The fact that the turbocharger is original may even be a plus - I've had bad experiences with poorly done rebuilds (even one I bought directly from Volvo). You can check it further by removing the intake duct and spinning the impeller - it should rotate freely and not have too much play. If it does need replacement after 18 years, count on breaking some exhaust manifold studs to remove it.

Re. its useful life. If it's not rusty and you drive it 15K per year, it may outlive all of us!

Don and Lucas pretty much said it all. It will make a mechanic out of you and take a few thousand. BUT, try to find something faster and classier for that money!

Rob --

"...How much would it cost roughly) to fix items mentioned if I did labor myself? How much life is left in the car?"

The car sounds like some project work in store for you, but probably no hidden headaches. Much of the cost depends on what you're able or willing to invest in "sweat equity." That car could easily have another 200,000 miles before a major overhaul.

The clutch job is the most serious repair you face. Not only is it expensive, it's hard physical labor—even with a transmission jack. BE SURE YOU REPLACE THE REAR MAIN SEAL at the same time you replace the clutch.

The engine wiring harness is a royal pita, but something you can do yourself. The harness should cost around $200-250. You might find one on eBay for half that.

"...this kind of mileage excessive for an original turbocharger?"

Mobil 1 is a very good sign. Evidence of "idle time" is another good sign, but something you must ask him.

"...the engine had a "Puralator One" filter on it..."

It could be worse............ :)

The rear bushing and blower motor replacement are classic 240 pita repairs. They have been discussed to death on the BB. One needs abundant patience, the other goes smoothly with the right tools.

The drippy rack might be a seal replacement — a messy job best left to someone who doesn't mind it. Replacing the rack with a good rebuilt is a reasonable option. Rebuilts go for $200-250 from various BB advertisers, or maybe find a good used rack. The labor to replace is a Saturday morning job. Separating the rack from the steering column (and reconnecting the new rack) are tricky.

Be sure to plan for alignment when you're done.

If the car is $1,500 then plan to invest another $1,500.

How's the rust situation?

Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Rob

Sounds like a sweet deal. That is a lot to fix up.

I bought my 82 242 turbo for $3700. But the previous owner rebuilt the engine, installed new wiring harness, catalytic converter, windshield, turbo.

THe car was babied by him, but was left outside in the Oregon rain.

The car was not perfect either. I have repaired the sunroof since the gearbox and cables making awful noises, going ot have to replace door hinges, outside trim, got some minor electrical problems and fuel things to work out.

Clutch: up to $300 depending on what type you get and if you install or mechanic does. U can get a Centerforce Dual Type II for a good price and that will hold up for a long time and more power if you modify the engine!

Racks are spendy. Try Import Parts Specialities in Idaho. They have good prices on most anything Volvo. Also, search the net for Jorgen steering. (I still need to find that catalog)

They sell racks and steering gears for almost every manufacturer.

3 row Nissen brass radiator is $200 or more. Blower motor is the main thing. It takes so long to get to it is a main pain. I have personally not done it, but have heard many others complain on this board about it. Underhood wiring harness can be had on ebay used for $100 or so, or iPd new for $250

Rear bushings need to be pressed in, or you could use some magic tools for replacing them that people have created.

Turbos can last a long time. It all depends on how they were treated. Meaning, on engine startup was it allowed time to get good oil to the turbo and on shutdown allowed time for cooler oil/water to reciruclate and cool down the bearings. Turbos can last a long time with clean air and oil and proper warm-up/cool down.

Total money to invest would probably be close to $1000-$1200, if you did most of the work.

does it have any other electrical gremlins?

To give you an idea. Since buying the 242 7 months ago, I have probably purchased $500-600 dollars of parts and perishables (fluids, belts).

If I got any prices wrong, or other things, others more knowledgeable please correct me.

hope it works out for you. the Turbo 240s RULE!

take care

happy holidays for you

Luke

82 242T 161K miles