|
Rob --
"...How much would it cost roughly) to fix items mentioned if I did labor myself? How much life is left in the car?"
The car sounds like some project work in store for you, but probably no hidden headaches. Much of the cost depends on what you're able or willing to invest in "sweat equity." That car could easily have another 200,000 miles before a major overhaul.
The clutch job is the most serious repair you face. Not only is it expensive, it's hard physical labor—even with a transmission jack. BE SURE YOU REPLACE THE REAR MAIN SEAL at the same time you replace the clutch.
The engine wiring harness is a royal pita, but something you can do yourself. The harness should cost around $200-250. You might find one on eBay for half that.
"...this kind of mileage excessive for an original turbocharger?"
Mobil 1 is a very good sign. Evidence of "idle time" is another good sign, but something you must ask him.
"...the engine had a "Puralator One" filter on it..."
It could be worse............ :)
The rear bushing and blower motor replacement are classic 240 pita repairs. They have been discussed to death on the BB. One needs abundant patience, the other goes smoothly with the right tools.
The drippy rack might be a seal replacement — a messy job best left to someone who doesn't mind it. Replacing the rack with a good rebuilt is a reasonable option. Rebuilts go for $200-250 from various BB advertisers, or maybe find a good used rack. The labor to replace is a Saturday morning job. Separating the rack from the steering column (and reconnecting the new rack) are tricky.
Be sure to plan for alignment when you're done.
If the car is $1,500 then plan to invest another $1,500.
How's the rust situation?
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
|
