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Like Randy, it really smelled like injectors not operating. You've swapped a lot of parts. Hopefully they were all good. When in doubt, going back to the original is often an idea, especially if swapping in a used part, unless a fault was confirmed or damage noticed (such as CPS insulation). Of course every time you swap a part the engine is now colder and has a better chance of a successful restart. Hmm, perhaps time to get a bit more thorough in diagnosis, even repeating some previous stuff.
I can't remember in your last thread, did you try disconnecting the AMM and attempting to start? More often a cold start problem, but easy to check.
To verify it's a fuel system problem, during a no start and after a whole bunch of cranking, pull and read the plugs to see if they're wet. If wet then not a fuel side problem unless an injector is leaking and only one or two plugs are wet. I don't expect you'll find a flooding problem.
You've checked the fuel pump system relay. Be sure to check them both with the engine running (in your case, while cranking during a no start), not just the initial spin-up after turning the key to KP-II. I think Regina does that, but if it doesn't do the spin-up then no problem as long as the pumps otherwise run. When in doubt, you can use jumpers in the relay socket. Note that relay sockets in 700/900s are prone to deformity from heat and making poor contact. Double check the plastic at the system relay socket (leftmost, second row), even for loose contact wires in the socket checking under the tray if you're at all suspicious.
You've swapped in a known good RSR, so that likely eliminates that common issue. If yours is under the hood rather than the relay tray (2nd row, leftmost), then verify you've swapped the right one using the wire colors (blue/yell, grn/red, & blk for the fan control relay at the coolant reservoir).
You should still verify the injectors are capable of being pulsed, again during a no-start, you can use the OBD system to operate them in one of the diagnostic modes (check for any codes while you're there for the heck of it, not all codes activate the Check Engine light). I'd actually try this first after the AMM as it's the next easiest. Use Diagnotic Test Mode (DTM) #3 on port #2 (A block) as described here in the FAQ https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm#FuelInjectionandIgnitionDiagnosticCodesi. DTM3 cycles through operating the engine fan half/full speed (I don't believe your Regina has ECU fan control, so this won't happen); pulsing the injectors (in rapid sequence); operating the IAC valve (rocks full travel back and forth, a great way to give it some exercise if it's starting to get a bit sticky); operating the carbon filter solenoid (if so equipped); operating the cold start valve (if so equipped, Regina usually has it, but may not if it has an EGR valve). DTM3 keeps cycling until stopped by depressing the button. Put your hand on each injector to sense if the injector is being pulsed and that pulsing seems more or less uniform. Attempt a restart afterwards to make sure the no start is still present.
One mystery no start I had with similar symptoms to yours was a worn distributor cap/rotor. Distributor cap/rotors are a wear item that sometimes gets ignored/forgotten as they last a long time, especially the rear cam mounted ones. It would act up on a hot restart, but was mostly okay on a cold start, although soon got worse over the course of a few weeks (that ended as a tow home). Double check that the coil wire is well seated at both ends. While you're there, pull all the ends off the ditributor to check for corrosion, especially the coil wire in your case, clean and lubricate with dielectric silicone grease if there's any hint of corrosion, also seal the boots (the lower one can slip off if the boot is lubricated, so be sure it's well seated.
The problem with intermittent no starts is that by the time you get your tools ready and go under the hood, things may have changed back to semi-normal. You may now have fuel and spark when you didn't before.
Please report back on each of these items so we're not wasting our breath or chasing in circles
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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