Hi,

Did you check the sockets terminals themselves as they could be corroded or have gotten hot and lost tension in the female spades
You could have a bad ground circuit out of that socket as well. Look for heat yellowing.
The fuel pump draws a lot of current and it does appear you are wiggling something, doesn’t it?

Since it’s a dual relay, It also gives power to all of injection system components. Starting with the AMM

The cleanflametrap.com site covers putting a test light on a orange colored wire out there on the AMM, to see if it’s turning on the whole injector system while cranking.
His whole site is a good read or study from the inside out.
Art knows when or if that color changes on other later years.

This car I believe was the last distributor driven ignition system. Be suspicious of a bad hall sensor especially if you are losing ignition spark during cranking.
Failure of either causes a no start.

At least this car it is not one with a Crank Position Sensor and the electronic spark relay off behind the battery. These EZK systems act the same way but you have clear the “system relay” of errors like you are doing.

Glad to hear from you and any 240s still in use.
Visit us more often as it helps to keep the BRICKBOARD lively.

Phil