A reminder to people to be careful about getting anti-seize or other compound on the stud threads and final torquing. It acts as a lubricant and could lead to over-torquing, even stretching the stud if you get carried away. The torque spec (85 nm =63 ft-lbs as stamped on the hub cap) is for a dry clean thread, also a dry clean interface between the conical nut and wheel. Same holds for using WD-40 as a cleaner as many of us like to do. If you use such compounds then be sure to wipe the threads clean as well as the conical interface, perhaps also using a slightly lower torque, but not to the point the nut will ever become loose during use. Also treat each stud the same to make for even pressure around the rotor. A good idea until you get used to what is appropriate for your car and technique is to quickly re-check the nuts for becoming loose after a few hundred miles, backing off the nut to see how tight it still is. Using a torque stick on an air gun, as many shops tend to do, further complicates the issue. They are simply not as accurate as a wrench and get further out of spec with use. I write on the inside of my wheel covers “Hand torque 63-65 ft-lbs OYWD” (Or You Will Die) as a threatening reminder to tire jockeys.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now