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All,
I'm trying to find the picture of Art Benstein's strut tube holding tool so that I can create one myself.
I've looked through most, but not all the pictures, but have yet to find it.
Does anyone have a copy that they can post, or point me to so that I can create this for this weekend?
Thanks in advance,
Matt
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1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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To the OP and Art -- been playing with cars for 55 years now. I've always removed the strut to replace the damper. Seems so much easier to me to chuck the tube up in the big vice and then do whatever needs to be done. I'm missing the benefit/need of doing it in the car.
Which means I get to learn something new --- splain me boys.
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Nothing new to learn here. Just labor saving procedure written by the folks who make up the Volvo service literature.
Removing the strut to the bench is appropriate in some cases where you might be doing much more than just replacing the cartridge, i.e. ball joints, control arm bushings, and with the brake calipers removed, brake fluid replacement.
When I made the notes years ago for the on-car replacement, I had limited time to replace a totally failed strut on my grandson's '90, so I stuck to the task at hand and basically followed the green book procedure "Replacing front shock absorber" in TP30000/4 Front Wheel Suspension. The 25 steps are designed to accomplish the specific task in a typical dealership shop setting with handy access to special tools "5036, 5037, 5039, 5040, 5043, 5045, and 5173."
Those notes were important to me because I felt I identified one minor risk using aftermarket ball joints. The book procedure needed to be modified because of the particular way the replacement ball joint was made, despite its full function for which it was designed.
The tool Matt was asking about, I think, is simply a hunk of wire sized to support the strut assembly disconnected at the top so it doesn't fall and try to rip the brake lines.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
"Never trust the work of the last guy, even if you're the last guy"
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Art,
Yes, that was the tool I was referring to.
Thank you so much!
This is on my list this morning.
Matt
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1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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I think the piece that made me smile was the reference to ".....labor saving....". Seems I've never had a 'proper' gland nut tool. Beyond that, the ones I removed (over the years on Volvos, Toyotas, VW's) were always so danged tight that it almost always required an 18" pipe wrench AND another foot or two long piece of pipe over the end of that. I found just removing it to the bench vise to be the only way I could "git 'r done"; then just bleed the brakes afterwards. Many a fully enclosed brake line bracket I've cut over the years....in fact, I just did that 'mod' again on a 1973 Toyota Corolla I recently acquired.
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Michael,
I too have never had a, or the proper gland nut tool at my disposal. The only thing I ever did buy was from IPD and well, it was less then useful.
With this current car, I'm attempting to take my time and do things slowly.
Therefore I'm just using a large set of channel locks to get the gland nut off, but before that I've heated them and sprayed generous amounts of PB Blaster on said threads. The driver side one loosened up within about an hour. The passenger side played hard to get so I had to play with it longer, like about 5 hours or so. I attempted to get a pipe wrench in there, but I just couldn't so I slowed down, sprayed, heated, worked on other things, rinse, repeat, till finally late in the day last weekend it decide to play with me and it moved. Once that happened it was all over and I was finally in business.
So any ways, there you have it. I don't want to remove the thing from the vehicle, I don't want to bleed the brakes, though they do need new/clean fluid, I just want to replace it while it is in the vehicle, thus the need for the "special" tool that Art created.
Thanks again to all for responding.
Matt
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1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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If you change your mind -- it's pretty easy to keep fluid in the system when you disconnect brake lines. Simply top up the reservoir and put a little piece of tape over the vent hole in the top of cap. If air can't get in the top, fluid can't get out the bottom.
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"If you change your mind -- it's pretty easy to keep fluid in the system when you disconnect brake lines. Simply top up the reservoir and put a little piece of tape over the vent hole in the top of cap. If air can't get in the top, fluid can't get out the bottom. "
Or, if you're out of tape or feel like leaving the reservoir level where it was (topping off can fool you if you're watching leaks or monitoring brake pad wear, which in a '93 is what the level sensor does) just grab a stick and block the brake pedal at least 1" down. That closes the ports from the reservoir to the master cylinder and effectively stops the fluid the same way the taped vent hole would. You might want to lift the fuse for the brake lights if you'll be long. #7 on a '93.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine.
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I'll see your picture and raise you one.....LOL!
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I'm laughing too. Good to know you're there!
I fold.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.
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To further ventilate the topic -- Art's pic shows painter's tape. This is sufficient for a stock street car or one with mild performance modifications. For a serious street machine or racer -- black duct tape is a must. For an all-out racer -- red duct tape only. And for a work vehicle or off road/rally -- masking tape must be used.
Just sayin'....
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I poked this thread more to see if Matt was awake - the guy who started it, but had an inkling we might revive this Bernoulli Brake Banter. It's snowing!
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
He who laughs last thinks slowest.
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Bernoulli reference = nice
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I'm awake!
Just frustrated that's all!
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1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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"Just frustrated that's all!"
Frustrated by what exactly?
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Those who race through life finish first. (Darrel Hunsbedt)
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Art,
Frustrated that I can't get more stuff done!
I'd like to be driving this car, but its cold out here now and I'm working long hours at work, so I have no day light when I do get home to attempt to do anything.
Thanks for asking, greatly appreciate it.
The car is now sitting comfortably in the garage after all the suspension components have been touched and renewed.
Next on the list is to go over all the brakes and related fluid, then diff fluid change, a little exhaust work, then finally re-wiring the rear gate.
Once that is done, the car will be road worthy.
Till then, I get what I can get done, and look forward to the day that I can put this girl back on the road.
Regards,
Matt
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1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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Matt,
I answered your email last week with this link showing my version of the tool shown in Volvo's service manual. Never got a response from you, so maybe check your spam folder?
On Car Method
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Except the profanity. You don't take that back; you just keep adding to it.
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Happy New Year, Art.
After replacing a half dozen struts, I thought I was an expert until I came across the same situation you describe. When things go wrong with me, my first reaction is that I've screwed something up because I usually have.
If I had seen your ON CAR METHOD, I'd have avoided wasting an hour with all maner of pry bars and eventually knocking loose one of the pins on the strut mount, not to mention much colorful language. Although I've never been 100% sure until now, I eventually concluded it was the freeking ball joint and applied the spring compressor in situ as you did, so thanks for sharing and clearing that up.
If I might humbly make a suggestion, it would be to move the photo and note about detaching the brake bracket further up before the pics of the assembly swung out. There's a pic of the wrench with swivel with no note, so I think you may have intended to follow that with the bracket shot. Coming at the end as it does, dolts like me who don't read carefully might miss that step and stress the brake line.
After dealing with a badly seized gland nut many years ago, I decided to apply Never Seize to their threads. I debated whether that was wise, but as yet none have ever loosened. I recently replaced a strut that has been in salt for 10 years and the nut came out clean so I'll continue that practice.
Regards, Peter
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Hi Peter,
Feels good to know someone else came to the same conclusion blaming the ball joint. It is a hypothesis I'm not willing to go to the effort of testing, so your support is welcome.
Yes, it would make sense to re-order things to account for step-by-step readers. My notes are typically done for myself and never intended as tutorial instructions, however, the prose offered belies my claim.
The way these things turn out sometimes makes me think of how we enter an address into a nav app and take off driving. Worse yet, I nearly always set out without any guidance at all (even my own notes) just for the excitement of discovery. And nearly always, it is a mistake.
Last weekend, it took me twenty minutes to stretch a rack boot over the rack housing. After all was done, I did some internet research, finding a Rennlist post about a coat hanger tool that didn't wow me, but another few on folding the lip back over the first pleat which I hope I'll remember the next time.
About the never seize. I do too.
Thanks, Peter.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
A man will pay $20 for a $10 item he needs. A woman will pay $10 for a $20 item that she doesn't need.
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Art,
I've been checking, but I have not received anything from you, thus the reason for the post.
Glad to hear your doing well.
Thanks for the photo and reply1
Matt
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1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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Let me know if you want the full headers to pursue with Comcast. Xfinity email!
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Eat, drink, and be thoughtful.
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Art,
Might as well so I can call up ComCrap and say Hey, why am I not getting emails????
Thanks,
Matt
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1989 - 245, 1990 - 245, 1991 - 245, and 1993 - 245
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Send me another email with an alternate reply-to.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Code is like fart, you support only yours.
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I sent the headers to both your gmail and comcast addresses. Also tested emails to accounts I have on those two as well. Can't say why you have me blocked, but I've run into the issue before where an ISP has blacklisted entire IP ranges.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
"Those who trade liberty for security have neither."
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