RWD - Antifreeze to Coolant

Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 8/2019(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 10/2003 200 INDEX [<<]  [>>]


Antifreeze to Coolant 200 1991

Zerex G05? I'm forgetting the Zerex version we all like. An easy search for you. Pentafrost antifreeze concentrate? I forget which version. And Volvo blue coolant.

A three metal antifreeze with iron, aluminum, and yellow copper alloys. Also you have a heater core with lead-tin solder welds.

Mix with distilled water. Not tap water. There is information on the redblock B230 engine cooling systems in the FAQ. Ctrl+click the FAQ to open it in a browser tab and read up. As Mr. Yount indicates, GM DexCool is not the best for 240 cooling system.

Whether or not dino or synthetic motor oil, verify the PCV system breathes freely while not vacuum leak.

The FAQ discusses AW-7x auto transmission flush methods. Dexron V or IV (whatever is current) is backward compatible with the Dexron II or III that was current when built in 1993. Some will use mineral oil as an intermediate step and than flush again sometime later with synthetic like Mobile 1. Flush is at the transmission cooling lines or you can use or make a tool iPd sells to do this or siphon the transmission fluid through the dipstick tube. Disconnecting the dipstick tube from the transmission oil pan usually means one can ruin the pan or dipstick tube, if you mean to get at the screen filter in the transmission.

Again, treated in the FAQ for 700-900 series as 240 of the same year shares the same large components.

Differential uses GL-5 and your owner manual indicates viscosity.

At 166k, the rear wheel bearings should be inspected for grease pack and bearing / seal wear. You may want to inspect the front wheel bearings for grease pack cleanliness and bearing play with tire mounted. You will want to inspect the front and rear suspension bushings, the driveshaft center support bushing / bearing at some point. Maybe a u-joint twist test of all three u-joints. Inspect the steering shaft u-joints also.

The power steering may have been filled with Ford "Type F" or maybe Dexron at the factory. The Haynes manuals says Dexron II and the 1990 240 formed leaks into the inner tie rod bellows in under a year with new Dexron III or V. The 1991 240 owner manual indicated ATF Ford "Type F". So, no power steering there yet new tie rods all around. Also, inspect and maybe replace the inner and outer tie rods. The steering rack, with inner tie rod bellow removed, may enjoy an inspection and grease pack check. Enough grease to lube the geared rack rod, yet not so much as to obstruct air moving back and forth as you steer left to right.

Also, at 166k, the crank pulley (harmonic oscillation damper) may require replacement as the bushing material in between tends to fail by now. You will need the counter hold tool to remove it. Though if no tool, you have the "rope trick" to hold the engine at #1 cylinder post compression upstroke TDC. I do not like using this method as doing this or using a impact wrench can break the crank timing belt gear alignment key. An indie Volvo repair shop, a Volvo marine Penta repair shop may allow you to rent the counter hold tool. The counter hold tool iPd sells is the one to get that fits factory and new crank pulleys. You may want ot do the same with a counter hold for the upper and middle camshaft timing belt gear. Your 1993 uses a round tooth 100k mile timing belt. Use an INA brand tensioner. ContiTech (Continental) is OEM and they sell a kit yet may be less expensive to buy the t-belt and tensioner separately?

If the enginge sags rearwards, both motor mounts and the transmission mount.

Engine position is sensed using the crank position sensor (CPS) or engine RPM sensor (less often named now). Engine will not run should this sensor fail. Inspect the sensor at the rear of the engine at about the top of the tilted engine transmission assembly. Secured to a plate, if the sheathing has split and you see metal foil, replace. This form mentions many ways to approach replacement. Carry a spare.

What color is the brake fluid? Black as night? Black brake fluid means seized brake calipers. Flush the ABS brake system with DOT 4, using a Motive power pressure brake or like bleeder. No need to run the ABS pump during the flush at around 15-20 PSI.

Also, in the air filter box, as with your now gone 1987 240, is the thermostat controlled preheater flap valve. Always fails to hot all the time only. Dunno what state you are in, yet restore function with new thermostat (BorgWarner Whaler 70411 every year or two) or remove the silver accordion hose between the exhaust manifold shroud and the bottom of the air filter box. The hose passes under the water pump fan shroud. If in goofy CA or NY states, emissions test means emission control inspection. So, you may want the preaheter to work or the appearance. If very cold winters where you are, you may want top restore preheater function with new thermostat.

Also, test the OBD, a feature you 1987 did not have fully without a multimeter. The the fault threshold in the engine control system is very forgiving, and items like the ECT or throttle position switch or sensor can fail yet OBD won't report it. OBD page in FAQ:


Also, inspect the wire harness that pass through both liftgate hinges. Inspect from the top. See breaks of the wire? The ground wire will have broken by now unless replacement hinges. Also, the liftgate hinges wear. View edge on. The bottom edge of the roof mount front hinge section and the rear half lift gate section should be somewhat even. If the rear section is near or touching the roof, time to replace the hinges. The hinge pin is a much harder carbon steel than the rear hinge section, and so the rear hinge section pulls away from the front. If left to chance, the hinge can separate. Use Volvo wire harness if you want the replace these to pass through the lift gate as factory does. I got cheapo MTC and merely routed inside the cargo area in a shabby chic low class install.

You can use Ford Taurus wheels, I guess? Yet your 1993 240, a GL? Should have the multi-x wheels? I guess 14"? I'm not sure. The Volvo steelies are the very best being very strong and light versus say the Virgo and not as heavy Draco five spoke wheels. Later Volvo Corona wheels are very light and strong. I've given up on alloys wheels. Used wheels from when Volvo made the cars and wheels means the wheels are probably corroded and may be bent or other issues. An upgrade to handling are the 15" 740 steelie wheels.

Bilstein Touring dampers are the best bang for the buck. The rear dampers rattel on the upper mounts. Dunno if Bilstein fixed the issue after all these years. Bilstein B6 HD wont fit your 1993 front struts. If you have $$$ Koni is next. Consider urethane bushes for the rear suspension torque rods unless replaced already. Probably the same for the front and horrible rear trailing arm bushes. I forget which brand, SuperPro or Whuiteline, merely slips in to the older outer bushing shell. I believe white line give you an outbushing shell to press in aftyer the horrible press out of the rear trailing arm bushing. You cnma use a press of ask your truedt auto machine shop service to press out other bushings. If urethane bushes, use a lot of SuperLube NLGI 2 silicon grease.

You will want to inspect the wire harness connectors, ensure grounds are secure, inspect the fuse panel for corrosion at the fuse holder ends. DeoxIT-D spray is your electrical contact pal. Liek for the power window switches at the parking brake console after years of spilled pop or what have you made them nasty and not working.

The exterior door window scrapers, if factory, have shrunk and have embrittled. iPd sells a set for sedan and wagon four door. You may want to inspect the door cavity with door card off.

The 1992+ uses the plastic heater control valve. A drop in replacement is what Wagonmeister - David Samuels puts out. This plastic heater control valve is made of ABS plastic and, like the radiators with plastic side tanks, can fail. Preventive insurance while you service the cooling system.

You may want to inspect and replace the blower motor if it runs slow or not at all.

May want to consider exhaust manifold to cylinder head replacement as part of your exhaust service regime. Same for the air intake manifold gasket as this stiffens and shrinks over time. I have to replace these also on mine.

The intank prepump or transfer pump may require replacement. AC Delco still makes the OEM pump. Art Benstein's cleanflametrap site has a page title In the Tank you will want to read as well his many other pages, should you be able to find these, in his wholly helpful site.

I guess that does it. More as it pops up I guess.

May want to search through the RWD forum using the search feature. Also, the FAQ has good info for you also. A Bentley 240 service manual helps. Haynes is alright yet misses things and has inaccuracies, a few.

There exist wiring diagram sites and sites with Volvo green factory manuals you can use.



Dunno what your budget is, yet I hope this helps you get started. Sorry to go on so long, tho.


Donate NOW! Give your brickboard.com a big DONATION!!! Find the on brickboard pages!


New Alloys and tires for1991 240 Wagon [200][1991]
posted by  someone claiming to be Saabaholic  on Mon Apr 29 17:14 CST 2019 >

Cut and paste link:

<< < > >>

Users marked in green are currently online.

©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2016. All material except where indicated.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.

All participants agree to these terms.
Powered by Denizen - Custom Software for Enthusiasts