Thanks a million for the very excellent reply. I'm absorbing ! I've replied directly below:
A glance of your engine bay image suggest the motor and transmission mounts may need replacement. The engine appears to be sagging rearwards. The brake and, correspondingly, the hydraulic clutch fluid are black. Use a Motive or like pressure bleeder to bleed the brakes or high jinks like seized brake calipers and failed brake and hydraulic clutch master cylinders can eventually fail. I'll refrain from other comment.
This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping to get (outside of the starting issue). I am going to post some more images in another thread relating to the current state of the car, hoping to get some notes from experts on what might be some good first things to do to get it in top shape. I've noticed already that the radiator expansion tank is leaking, so have planned to replace that, but I'm sure as you mention there are many other things to tackle as well.
The disconnected hose means the engine has a rather large air intake vacuum leak. So, at least plug the open end. You may want to verify other vacuum leaks before buying any parts.
I plugged the open end with a chopstick (all I could think of) and lo and behold, the engine started! Brilliant work there, thank you.
That hose is very likely usually connected to the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) breather box that secure to the engine block under the #3 and #4 air intake port dunner that secure to the cylinder head.
I will have a look there today and see if I can reconnect this. Is it possible to access without taking out the intake?
Do you own an electric multimeter? Preference for digital multimeter of some quality. It need not be high priced Siemens or Fluke.
...check for DC volts at the battery. At a cold engine / cold day, around 14.5 - 14.7 Volts DC. The battery discharging repeatedly can ruin it.
I've checked the battery with a multimeter and it's reading when the car engine is running.
Wireline corrosion in low volt DC systems, like that in your 1989 Volvo 240, is something you may not see. Corrosion forms at bonded contacts such the fuse ends at the fuse panel (give them a spin for short term fix), or any wire harness connector that may use similarly or same composed alloys. DeoxIT-D spray or grease can help.
I've purchased all new fuses and have sprayed the terminals with electrical contact cleaner now just to be safe. Are there any places outside of the fuse box that may need additional checking / cleaning?
You may want to investigate any wire harness modifications a prior owner may have applied. Does the dome, glove box, trunk, or (if equipped) under hood light turn off when you close these to open the circuit so current no longer flows to the bulb? And the like.
The dome light didn't go on when I first bought the car, but I assumed it was a bulb issue so I have since replaced the bulb and it now turns on (but not when the doors are opened, only when manually switched). I'm going to try and example the contacts in the switch and clean them to fix. The glovebox light and license plate lights all work, but the under hood light does not (again might be a bulb issue).
I've post some more (higher res) photos to the Brickboard Gallery as well as a video of the engine running below. If someone can help point me towards the PCV that would be great help!
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