Hi Mr. Kitz,

Congrats on your recent 1989 Volvo 240 Estate acquisition.

The B19 E you have comes equipped with Bosch K-Jetronic continuous injection and, I believe, a version of the Bosch EZK ignition. B19 E means high compression (relatively) without emission control like a catalytic converter and (I guess) oxygen sensor and the corresponding frequency valve as a fuel trim for emissions control.

A glance of your engine bay image suggest the motor and transmission mounts may need replacement. The engine appears to be sagging rearwards. The brake and, correspondingly, the hydraulic clutch fluid are black. Use a Motive or like pressure bleeder to bleed the brakes or high jinks like seized brake calipers and failed brake and hydraulic clutch master cylinders can eventually fail. I'll refrain from other comment.

K-Jetronic is dependent on a well-sealed air induction intake from the air filter all the way to the ait intake port manifold.

The disconnected hose means the engine has a rather large air intake vacuum leak. So, at least plug the open end. You may want to verify other vacuum leaks before buying any parts.

That hose is very likely usually connected to the postive crankcase ventilation (PCV) breather box that secure to the engine block under the #3 and #4 air intake port dunner that secure to the cylinder head.

It helps to know how many kms are on the odometer.

I'll guess manual 5-speed M47 transmission or perhaps the M46 4-speed + overdrive switch atop the gear lever?

Engine vacuum lifts a round plate that rests within a round venturi that is below the air intake port and throttle body- you see a large round boot larger at the bottom and small at the top secured by clamps. Though I have no wiring diagrams for post-1980 Bosch K-Jetronic, when you crank the engine, engine vacuum lifts the plate, and a switch under the plate engages the the fuel pumps through what should be the green fuel injection relay.

Did the battery lose charge before or after installing your radio?

Do you own an electric multimeter? Preference for digital multimeter of some quality. It need not be high priced Siemens or Fluke.

Plug the hose to see whether the engine starts and runs. If it runs, check for DC volts at the battery. At a cold engine / cold day, around 14.5 - 14.7 Volts DC. The battery discharging repeatedly can ruin it.

Wireline corrosion in low volt DC systems, like that in your 1989 Volvo 240, is something you may not see. Corrosion forms at bonded contacts such the fuse ends at the fuse panel (give them a spin for short term fix), or any wire harness connector that may use similarly or same composed alloys. DeoxIT-D spray or grease can help.

Merely disconnecting / reconnecting an electrical connector can restore electrical connection. Yet get the multimeter if not already.

If you can find a wiring diagram, begin your diagnosis through fuses that are powered with the ignition key out.

You may want to investigate any wire harness modifications a prior owner may have applied. Does the dome, glove box, trunk, or (if equipped) under hood light turn off when you close these to open the circuit so current no longer flows to the bulb? And the like.

The Volvo enthusiast site you may have seen in the UK is:
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/

Thank you for using the BrickPix gallery. The instructions are dated. The only limit is the max file size of 1 megabyte. So, you can post larger images. The image size restriction no longer applies.

Though the brickboard is the largest pro-Volvo site on the i-nets.

Please respond.

Questions?

Hope that helps.

Thank you. Happy Caturday Eve!

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