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"But I did remove the connector (with power off) and then, with the engine running (in limp mode), I did check for voltage being delivered. I did not write them all down. But I saw battery voltage on the terminal on the extreme end of the connector. And I saw about 4-5V on the terminal on the other extreme end. There were one or two others with very low voltage (.1 volt or so). So I am thinking that the wiring harness is not the problem. It was replaced once some time ago."
Try this: Put the connector back on the AMM. Measure the voltages from the back side of the connector with the boot pulled back for access. Do this with the key on and the engine not running. Write them down. Do not assume an aftermarket rebuilt AMM which worked new is still OK. Have to tell you, yours is the first good review I've seen of one, though that doesn't really mean anything.
Edit: Sorry, that was Vince's review of the FIC AMM. Mis-attributed it to you.
Due to the trouble finding good ones, many have converted their LH2.0 cars to LH2.2 by re-pinning for an 007 AMM and swapping in an LH2.2 ECU.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
Jokes about German sausage are the wurst.
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