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buggered spark plug threads #1& #3 200 1992

My daughter's 92 240 Verde almost 200,000 miles on the clock..
Time for engine seals, belts and stuff...
All was well till i went to put in the spark plugs...
Two years ago I had run in with #1 plug (it would thread but not tighten) so I bought a LISLE spark thread repair kit, and every thing was good...
The #1 plug was a little stiff coming out, but it always has been.
Long story short,,, apparently the new threads stayed on the plug and I threw the plugs out not really looking at the plugs.. SO I go to run the plugs in and the head says "NO I don't think so"
I tried to chase the threads and reinstall a new thread insert...
well again no dice
So no what do i do?
I have a really nice head and installed cam from a 92 240 turbo in the garage, and most everything to do a head swap , Should it come to that
Any bright ideas?
The new oil seal presses worked really well,little silicone grease on the friction surfaces and wham-bam, went on pretty much with finger effort..
I'm getting to old for this

Paul out between Disneyland an downtown LA








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    buggered spark plug threads #1& #3 200 1992

    I had this issue with my 740T.

    I had to tap slightly larger threads (carefully with the head on and with heavy grease to catch the shavings AND blowing out the cylinder with compressed air) and then used an insert kit from Napa. I put another 3 sets of plugs through it.

    The insert has a few parts and a few steps. It uses both thread-locker and an expanding portion to lock the insert from turning and coming out with a spark plug.

    The kit was worth every dollar! Cost between 10 and 50 dollars and you could buy additional inserts. I think I still have it somewhere. You can buy individual inserts.

    Very similar to this, if not identical: http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/SER2125/SER2125

    The trickiest part for me was properly drilling a countersink.

    Good luck!








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      buggered spark plug threads #1& #3 200 1992

      I looked at the tool you suggested, and it wasn't for an oversized, repair. and the next size up wasn't available.
      So I went with 'Time-Sert" Which had everything I needed, for an oversized thread repair Which is this tool but sized appropriately (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puRgAFmOK3s)
      It wasn't cheap. but it was a bunch less trouble than swapping heads...
      Time-sert has thread repair for other thread repair applications as well;
      I was happy, when I finally got the plugs all in (including chasing the threads on #3 hole) and it fired right up...Finally a no drama timing belt, and seals
      No leaks, no smoke, no fires, that's a good day....
      Any one in the L.A. area have a need for this, i believe arrangements could be made.
      Thanks for your support
      Paul out between Disneyland and downtown L.A.








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    buggered spark plug threads #1& #3 200 1992

    these might help

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHCv0xmeLHg

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BTTur7Fk6k








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      buggered spark plug threads #1& #3 200 1992

      I fixed this once, like this, and the insert came out with the plug...so i'll be needing an oversize tool..
      any thoughts on the best tool/ that is less expensive than having someone else doing it....

      Thanks as always Paul








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        buggered spark plug threads #1& #3 200 1992

        don't these kits comes in a few different sizes for this problem?








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          buggered spark plug threads #1& #3 200 1992

          these are for first time repair of stripped threads,,,I pulled the plug with the insert still firmly attached to it out of #1 plug hole ... so now i need to go oversize

          for example

          http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Sert-5141S-14mm-x1-25-Spark-Plug-Thread-Repair-Kit-/291308143202?hash=item43d3518262:g:m6MAAOSw2GlXF5W6&item=291308143202&vxp=mtr

          or here
          http://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Sert-5141S-14mm-x1-25-Spark-Plug-Thread-Repair-Kit-/291308143202?hash=item43d3518262:g:m6MAAOSw2GlXF5W6&item=291308143202&vxp=mtr

          Considering A. I don't even know any legitimate mechanics B. It's going to cost me $50 each way for towing... If i can fix it for about what it's going to cost me, and have new tools, I am ahead twice......
          If
          Any one who has fixed this feel free to chime in and prevent me from re-inventing the wheel....thanks as always

          Paul








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            buggered spark plug threads #1& #3 200 1992

            Hi there sorry to hear about your problem.
            This can worry your pants off trying to get something going back in there.

            Maybe you did not get the first insert installed in tight enough. They are depth specific to the tap made for that style insert.

            I have great respect for Helicoil Brand products, even though, he did not specifically name them.
            They probably make the kit for Napa to sell but don't hold me to it in today's marketplace.

            Helicoil makes their coils from stainless steel and coil insert shape design is a time and experienced tested product.
            In many cases manufacturers use them as "new threads" in the base material instead of tapping normal threads into it. They can be a stronger and a better faster thread in materials like aluminum or granular castings.
            The stainless steel also helps breaks up any electrolytic bonding to both metals or coatings engaged.

            Will740turbo appears to have dealt with this issue more than most people.
            I'm glad to say I have not!
            I don't spare anti-seize anything I assemble.

            I agree that experience is the greatest teacher. I feel that every time a person has to put one of these into an engine, there are variations to the difficulty. Location being the biggest one.
            At least, on an out in the open in-line engine, this works in your favor.

            The idea of using grease to coat the tools is standard operating procedure. The air going into the cylinder needs just a touch more explanation, in case many might wonder, just how is that going to happen, with that hole full of drill, that greasy tap and chips.

            What I do is apply air through an open intake valve using the intake manifold nipple port.
            You can use compressed air hose if you have a compressor or the exhaust from the rear of a vacuum cleaner. Anything to get a breeze going through the throttle body will travel there.

            I guess you could use the exhaust valve side if you have that manifold off.
            I would not try to blow air up through any exhaust system. No telling what crusty creatures lurk down there from that direction.

            May our thoughts and any good luck you need be with you!

            Phil








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              buggered spark plug threads #1& #3 200 1992

              From my current research, it would appear, that my problem is not unique.
              The price range of tools available alone is stunning..Once i secure the right tools my son (the man of keen eye and steady hand)will execute the maneuver.
              I appreciate the kind words of encouragement
              I have a brake bleeder from Harbor fright,that uses compressed air to create a low pressure flow into a canister..I am thinking I could enlarge the hose somewhat and use it for a cylinder vacuum...
              I'll keep you all advised.

              Thanks again

              Paul








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