Prior to working on front-end the steering wheel was always off-center to the right. I replaced two ball joints and the two outer tie-rod ends. Now while driving on straight road sometimes wheel is off-center to the left, off-center to the right or exactally straight and seems to have too much free-play. I had the car alligned after my front end work. What could my issue be?

Thanks in advance,
Joseph in New Mexico

Replaced my inner tie rods today.
The passenger side was very worn, driver side was less loose. I used a box wrench to hold the rack's teeth so to keep it from turning while I loosened the inner rod with a pipe wrench. It worked like a charm.

The car now drives tight and straight and has very little play in the steering wheel.

Thanks again for the tips.

Will do.

Bentley does not explain how to replace inner tie rods?

inner tie rods are threaded into the ends of the rack. once threaded they simply do not move. take a look at a picture of one. the male rack end threads into the female inner rod. what wears out on these is the ball and socket joint just outward of the bond between the inner rod and the rack end. if the outer tie rod ends are freed from the knee assembly you can test the inner rods by simply pulling the outer tie rod end in and out feeling for play.

This is less likely than the possibilities already mentioned, but I would also check your steering shaft lower u-joint and the rack itself for excessive play. Either one can cause the steering to float as you describe. When the lower u-joint went bad on my 240 the steering was all over the place. Definitely not safe!!

Usually what happens to Volvos is the steering shaft lower u-joint binds up and makes the steering overly stiff and it does not return to center very well. Probably not an issue for you since you are in NM. The steering shaft u-joint can bind up here in the NE due to all the road salt, sand and other crap that is used on our roads in the winter. FWIW - I have had issues with the steering shaft lower u-joint on both my 240 and 850.

Great.
When my wiggler assistant is available I will check the steering shaft U-Joint at the same time.

Thanks for the assistance.

If, as suggested, the lower steering shaft u-joint is stiff--a liberal application of your favorite penetrating oil will usually work to loosen them up--then a few days later use a few squirts of ATF. Of course if the joint has play it needs replacing. -- Dave

WD-40 has worked well for me. Rotate the steering wheel lock-to-lock for a few minutes spraying occasionally. This might take multiple applications. Follow it up with ATF or similar.

What you are describing is rack (tie rod) looseness. If that is indeed the trouble, that shop should not have finished and charged you for an alignment.

Lift the front end off of the ground under the crossmember. Grab each tire and shake it 3-9 o'clock and have someone look to see where the looseness is. If tie rods, you'll see the tie rod moving without moving its partner on the other side or the steering wheel.

Edit: I did not think to mention this, but loosely adjusted wheel bearings are a consideration, but you'll know that just as quickly when you wiggle the tires.

In any event, you should get an explanation from the folks who did your alignment.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

I was married by a judge. I should have asked for a jury. - Groucho Marx

Hi Art,
I have a lifetime alignment on this 240...for 129.00 at Firestone I could not say no...it has been 11 years since I bought the alignment and have used it five times.

I will check the inner tie rods for looseness. And also keep an eye for looseness at the wheel bearings.

If I'm correct, I read that the tie rod ends "MUST BE" at equal distances from the spot where you can hold the inner tie rod with a wrench. Is that a very important tip/advice?

I was afraid my stearing rack might be going out. Or something more serious.

How often, if ever, should the bearings and races be replaced on the front end?

Thanks for helping out again.

NewMexico240 wrote--"I will check the inner tie rods for looseness. And also keep an eye for looseness at the wheel bearings." It can be difficult to spot the looseness in an inner tie rod joint so having an assistant doing the wheel wiggling is a big help----be absolutely safe by having jack stands under the jack points. -- Dave

When I replaced the ball joints and outer tie rod ends last week I did the wiggle test. But I did not think to ask for assistance from an available wiggler to check the inner tie rods. I eyed them myself...now I know better. Will retest soon.

Thanks for the assistance.

The equal distance advice is important so you don't have the steering rack way off to one side, but a small variation is no problem.

The wheel bearings only need to be replaced if they are significantly worn, the cage is damaged, the rollers are discolored, spalled, etc. If roller bearing are kept lubed and not abused (no jumps) they last a very long time.

Greg

Thanks for the advice.